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Tricky! Start with a decent pocket and edge on the layer below the slab proper. Make balancy moves on miserable holds and insecure feet with a tough crux getting your feet up, then finally make it to some usable holds at the top. This problem tends to spit people off repeatedly until the precise sequence and body position is mastered.
On the slab right of Donkey Punch. Avoid the juggy seam to the left.
Easily workable with a single pad. Top moves are a bit high but easy.
|By Matt Fowls|
Jul 17, 2010
does anyone have any information on the variation beginning on the v6, and trending out right to the arete?
i did it yesterday, and have not been able to find any name or grade.
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 19, 2010
This is an awesome problem that no one talks about. It took me about 60+ times to finally figure out that I needed to move my right foot up about 3 inches. A great problem to work at the end of the day, because it's really easy on the hands.
I've never tried the right variation to the arete but I'll definitely give it a try next time I head out there.
|By Colin Cox|
Jun 10, 2013
The slab or the variation may be called Dirty Sanchez.