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The Narrows (East Rim)
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Hang On Loosely T 
Slab Route, The T 

The Slab Route 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 360'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,471
Submitted By: craigw on Jun 15, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Tova on Pitch 3 (10c). 40 feet of technical stemmi...


3 excellent pitches make this a perfect intro to fremont canyon multi-pitch routes. To find this route, rap to the bottom of the canyon (we used the anchors for "Hang on loosely" and left a fixed line to retrieve later). Once at the bottom of the canyon, walk to your left past several climbs until you reach a beautiful looking dihedral. This is the first pitch to "Dopes on punk" The Slab route starts up the broken crack 30 feet to the left of it.
Pitch 1-Head up fingercrack and face for 80 feet, then traverse right to fingercrack. Head up to overhang, traverse right underneath to bolted anchors. 160 feet-5.9
Pitch 2-Head up through overhang and continue up crack until you can undercling/traverse left into crack system. Head up the dihedral to large ledge with bolts. 150 feet-5.10a
Pitch 3-Head straight up dihedral "Blood and guts." 50 feet-5.10c


Standard rack (doubles to #2 camalot) with extra small nuts and rp's for third pitch.

Photos of The Slab Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Following the awesome pitch 2
Following the awesome pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike following the first traverse on p1
Mike following the first traverse on p1
Rock Climbing Photo: Tova on second half of pitch 2 after the underclin...
Tova on second half of pitch 2 after the underclin...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tova leading 5.5 finish variation pitch.  15-20 fe...
BETA PHOTO: Tova leading 5.5 finish variation pitch. 15-20 fe...

Comments on The Slab Route Add Comment
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By canyonclimber
From: Casper WY
Aug 19, 2009

This route goes at 5.10a if you move left from the top the second pitch belay station along the ledge to another set of bolts and up and out on 5.5. Poor communtication on second pitch because of river noise and belaying under roof, figure out some signals. Bring some small finger size pieces for the first pitch (.3,.4 BD size)
This route a must do for Fremont Canyon!
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Aug 3, 2010

Water was soo high you couldnt walk to the start of the route from the gully rap. We built an anchor on top and fixed a line down to the bolted belay above p1, then raped our lead line to a small perch at the base of p1. Excellent, excellent route. Thought the dihederal on pitch 2 was harder than 10a...
By T. Gittins
From: bozeman
May 16, 2015

pitch one is more like 130 feet...beta alert...I found traversing right at the bush after about 30 feet to be where the route went. this pitch is really good. it is not clear where to go near the anchors...there was a hand traverse leading to the anchors that was chalked up, but it is easier heading to the roof and traversing over on positive crimps and jams. not sandbagged, but not easy 5.9 either. only placed one number 2 and no number 3s. Heavy on the .3 and .4 sizes....and takes offset stoppers really well. didnt do the upper pitches cause I took way to long on the first pitch. we bailed and then boulder hoped and hiked out farther up river. getting out of this area is not trivial, and we were considering prusiking our fixed line
By Frost
Sep 14, 2015

Black, blue, green alien (or equivalent) protect pitch 3 (10c) perfectly.

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