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 ADVANCED
Gilligan's Island (AKA: The Alcove)
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Ectoplasm S 
Exit ArÍte S 
Hanging by a Thread S 
Larcombe's Lament (aka Dog Bite at Diablo) S 
Skipper Too, The T 

The Skipper Too 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Kisiel, Newell
Page Views: 480
Submitted By: Scott Beguin on May 7, 2008

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Billy on an earlier ascent of The Skipper Too, bef...

Description 

This climb is a north facing route that offers some fine Diablo moderate trad climbing that is usually free from crowds. It is a good choice on a hot day. Start up a moderate off width in a left facing dihedral and continue to some wide hands to hands out the top with dependable gear placements all of the way up. Bolted anchors were eventually put on this route because we were getting tired of having to jump or down climb off of the island.


Location 

This is the only trad route on the north side, and it is directly to the right of and shares anchors with "Slap Happy" which is a sport route. The north side is also found around the corner right from "Dog Bite at Diablo" which is referred to in some guide books as "Larcombe's Lament", which is a snaked route.


Protection 

Double set of Camalots from #1 to #4, some runners and quick draws, a 2 bolt anchor which might need some new sling or chains for lowering.



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By Chris Wenker
From: Santa Fe
May 8, 2008

Is this the same as the 5.8 route that is called "No Name Crack" by Jackson (2006:153), Beverly (2006:230), and Bradshaw ( www.losalamos.com/diablo/Alcove.asp )?

By Scott Beguin
From: Los Alamos, NM
May 14, 2008

Chris, That is a correct observation of misinformation in a publication.

By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 28, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

This crack seemed easy for 5.8: its published rating; but may be on the hard side of 5.6, especially for those who haven't climbed cracks. The suggested double set of camalots is too much to carry up here for a 40' climb for all but the newest leaders. Because I don't have anything to add to it, I'll stay out of the discussion about the name (or lack thereof...) of this crack.

The anchor appeared to have chains and be just fine for rappelling- however, I downclimbed the next crack system to the west instead (easy 5th), so I could be misremembering.