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The Skinny on Thin Ropes
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By Peter Hurtgen
From Fort Collins, CO
Oct 29, 2013
at the rap from yellow spur
What are my options for thin ropes?? I'm looking for a 70m but that all the specifications... The sterling fusion nano 9.2 looks really nice! maybe a rope ranging from 9.0-9.5? I would be using it to red point long routes and long multi pitch climbing. Thoughts? concerns? real life testing? lay it on me!

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By 20 kN
Administrator
From Hawaii
Oct 29, 2013
Peter Hurtgen wrote:
What are my options for thin ropes?? I'm looking for a 70m but that all the specifications... The sterling fusion nano 9.2 looks really nice! maybe a rope ranging from 9.0-9.5? Thoughts? concerns? real life testing? lay it on me!

I did not like the Nano. I found it got pretty stiff with use. The Beal Joker is nice, but it has a short lifespan and stretches like a wet noodle. Maximum has the new 9.1mm Airglider, but it is hard to find and expensive. If I could get one for a good price, I would select the Airglider. The Mammut Serenity 8.9 or 8.7 is always a good choice. My favorite is probably the Bluewater Dominator 9.4mm.

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By Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 29, 2013
wham bam hand jam. Wrapping up the final moves of Twist of Fate, Oak Creek Canyon. <br /> <br />photo: Blake McCord
i have had a few Edelweiss Performance 9.2. Used them for everything and have outlasted most other ropes I have owned.

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By Ryan Nevius
From The Range of Light
Oct 29, 2013
Mt. Agassiz
Lots of threads on this already, but regarding the Nano getting stiff...My nano has seen over 300 pitches of trad / alpine climbing (including multiple whippers) and still handles like new. I have nothing but positive things to say about the rope, and partners are often impressed by its durability.

That said, there are a lot of good options in the 8.+ / 9.- range that fit your bill.

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By doligo
Oct 29, 2013
Jose Cuervo Fruitcups dirtbag style
Ryan Nevius wrote:
Lots of threads on this already, but regarding the Nano getting stiff...My nano has seen over 300 pitches of trad / alpine climbing (including multiple whippers) and still handles like new. I have nothing but positive things to say about the rope, and partners are often impressed by its durability. That said, there are a lot of good options in the 8.+ / 9.- range that fit your bill.


I have the opposite experience - got a core shot on my Nano in less than a week of use. Staying away from Sterling since then!

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By Buff Johnson
Oct 29, 2013
smiley face
pmi puts out some sweet stuff if you can pony up the dough

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By NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Oct 29, 2013
The 9.5 Mammut rope (revelation I think) has just about universal praise. I love mine and honestly I had a hard time finding someone online who didn't love theirs

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By James Dean Anderson
From Denver, CO
Oct 29, 2013
Indian Creek
I really like my 9.2 nano, I think it handles great. Everyone I climb with loves it too. Have used it for ice, alpine, sport, and trad. I will buy another when this one wears out.

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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Oct 29, 2013
i'm a huge fan of the Nano, as is everyone i talk to who climbs on the skinny lines a bunch. It seems to be the best of the single lines that are 9.2 and under. ymmv, of course, and every individual rope will be different. If you're willing to go super skinny, the Edelrid Swift 8.9mm gets alot of good reviews, but man, its way too skinny for my taste.

In the 9.4/9.5 category, there's a much bigger selection of great ropes- I like the Sterling Ion2, the Edelrid Falcon, and the Mammut Infinity. I know the Petzl Fuse is really popular as is the Bluewater Dominator (although I think they arent making this rope anymore- anyone know for sure?).

also, Maxim makes the Airliner, not the Airglider. I'm dubious of this rope, mostly because i havent seen any numbers attached to it. If it follows the path of most Maxim/NE ropes, the impact forces are too high for my taste.

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By 20 kN
Administrator
From Hawaii
Oct 29, 2013
John Wilder wrote:
(although I think they arent making this rope anymore- anyone know for sure?).

I do not believe they are. Most online retailers list the product as discontinued or they removed it from their site. Yes, Airliner, sorry. Maybe I would get it right if Maxim actually put it on their website. It seems like a top secret rope because I have only seen it sold at one store, and I cant find it online anywhere. I have been climbing on Maxim ropes for years and I love them, but my 9.5mm is a bit heavy for hard sport at 63g/m. I recall looking at the specs of the 9.1 and it was similar to the other Glider ropes. It is just a smaller version of the Glider series.

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By ScoRo
From Portland, OR
Oct 29, 2013
Ahhhh, remember the hair and pay tribute to it.
I like my nano and dragged it all over the damn place for 2,000' off-route through loose garbage and over edges and through the sand and aside from a burr here and there, it looks brand new. Time will tell how it stands up but so far so good. I love the handling, and it's purdy bright colors.

Used the Joker on many ice pitches and really like it as well.

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By Br'er Rabbit
From The Briar Patch
Oct 30, 2013
'Bred en bawn in a brier-patch, Brer Fox--bred en bawn in a brier-patch!'
Darren Mabe wrote:
i have had a few Edelweiss Performance 9.2. Used them for everything and have outlasted most other ropes I have owned.


I had a Performance that I bought in early 2008 and retired in mid 2012. This rope was my primary line for cragging and multipitch. Climbed on this rope in the desert, on granite slab, steep sandstone, and I took some huge falls on it. Very durable....still use a it as a tag line for tree work.

Currently, I am climbing on Mammut ropes. An 8.9 Serenity and a 8.0 Phoenix, both 70 M. So far, I am really enjoying this combination for hard cragging and multipitch. The durability seems comparable to the Performance, but the handling is a bit stiffer. The sheath on the Mammut ropes is very tight and glides better, though.

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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Oct 30, 2013
Day Lily.
Huge fan of the Beal Joker 9.1 (double, twin, single). My version isnt the Unicore and its still in amazingly good shape given its experience; the sheath has been dragged over hell and back and is still going strong. Ill bet with the Unicore these ropes are even sweeter.

Just my opinion/experience with it = mostly multipitch at the Gunks and Seneca.

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By bruce Mcintosh
Oct 30, 2013
i have a 9.2 rope and one time i fell on a climb and my belayer had a grigri 2 and relied on that to catch my fall. it didn't and thankfully he burnt his hands stopping my fall. just for your peace of mind when climbing with thin ropes.

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By rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Oct 30, 2013
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protect between Bolt 2/3 just post crux . <br /> <br />Picture credit goes to eric Singleton, and many thanks to Josh Bagget for the great belay.
got the ion 2 in 70 m... handles really well. Only used it so far on 7 consecutive days on sierra granite but it might as well look new. Time will tell how the NC granite and gneiss treat it.

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By She's Such a B
From Lakewood, CO
Oct 30, 2013
Heel hook
I'm in the market for a 70m meter as well but looking for something in the 9.5+ range. Looking for a nice, not going to destroy my bank account option.

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By bearbreeder
Oct 30, 2013
the mammut $$$$ ropes are known to be fairly durable ... specifically the halves, revelation and the infinity ...

of course they are fairly stiff for their size after a decent amount of use ... look at their sheath % listing for comparison purposes

but in terms of durability mammut ropes are generally excellent choices

i own and use the mammut infinity and phoenix personally

;)

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By Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 30, 2013
wham bam hand jam. Wrapping up the final moves of Twist of Fate, Oak Creek Canyon. <br /> <br />photo: Blake McCord
bruce Mcintosh wrote:
i have a 9.2 rope and one time i fell on a climb and my belayer had a grigri 2 and relied on that to catch my fall. it didn't and thankfully he burnt his hands stopping my fall. just for your peace of mind when climbing with thin ropes.

yup. belay gloves help.

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By Optimistic
From New Paltz
Oct 30, 2013
I've climbed probably 100-150 pitches on my Mammut Infinity 9.5 and it's superb. Also probably 50 or so pitches on my buddy's Mammut Revelation (9.2?) and that seems great as well so far. Basically absolutely no reservations at all about either rope.

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By Moritz B.
Oct 30, 2013
Profile Pic
I would suggest the Edelrid Swift 8.9.
It will wear out fast if you fall on it a bunch and toprope routes.
For pure redpointing and long multipitch it is really great.
It handles easily and due to the compact sheath it runs smoothly over edges.
A grigri 2 catches it completely.

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By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 30, 2013
Cleaning up in Jenny Lake.
I've been a fan of my Beal Joker, but then again it's definitely a backup/specific purpose kind of rope. I've never taken a real lead fall on it, but as far as the handling and the low weight, I can't complain. If you can squeak by with it in a 60m length you'll hardly even notice the weight on approaches.

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