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The Skewer 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Ted Hammond and Tom Armstrong 10/86
Page Views: 1,749
Submitted By: lee hansche on Nov 8, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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starting up

Description 

SO FUN!!! These days most people know this route as the first half of Beat Junkie (5.13b). Whether done as a start to that route or to its own anchor it is a must do climb for this section of cliff.

Head up the moderate start in the corner on to the second bolt. Stem up the corner until you can get a good hold out left and shift to a stance under the crux headwall. There are two ways to to do this section and your style will decide your fate. Either work the crack with your right hand and the arete with your left as you hug your way through the crux stabbing the slots with precision. Or, climb the crack with a super sequency collection of strong moves and tough jams (if you are good in cracks this seems easier, but not easy by a long shot).

After the crux you make a funky mantel on to a super slab and move left to a ring bolt (the old anchor) Don't bother clipping it. Make another tough move out right on to another slab, a big move gets you to the final wall of schist leading to the anchor. The climbing here is technical and crimpy and the movement is good but the rock quality is a bit worse, foot holds are still breaking off.

Location 

On the left end of the ledge look for the fixed long draw on the first bolt in a corner below an awesome cracked face.

Protection 

11 Bolts to anchors. The the first 5 draws are fixed--the rest are not.


Photos of The Skewer Slideshow Add Photo
heading up in to the crux section...
heading up in to the crux section...
right in the crux...
right in the crux...
Antonio on super slab #1
Antonio on super slab #1

Comments on The Skewer Add Comment
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By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Nov 10, 2008
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Great description, Lee. A standout route among a wall of 4 star gems, indeed!
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 12, 2008

I left some draws up on the upper part of the route today if that makes it more attractive to you all go for it, its all fixed as of today...

after the ring bolt things get a little funky... i dont understand the bolt placements much and the climbing stays hard till you hit the schist above where it only eases a little...
By stow
Sep 17, 2012
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Not many people do this route -- possibly b/c of the spaced bolts and scary slightly lichen-y slabs.

I think this works to make it reasonable:

A short draw on the last bolt of the crack makes it easier to avoid foot entanglement as you enter the first slab.

A long sling with a short draw on the second slab bolt (so it's just hanging over the edge) means you can clip it from the top of the crack to protect the first slab and also the rope won't rub on the edge if you fall as you do the second slab.

Just skip the ring bolt.

All other bolts are normal draws though a long one before the mantel means you may be able to thank god clip from the start of the second slab.

High quality route only marred by proximity to ultra-classic Beat Junkie and strange -possibly historical -grading (I mean the crux of Beat Junkie is the crack, am I crazy?)

Compared to how many sessions other similarly graded climbs take for me - I believe this is 13a. I got 2 other 13s quicker than this one.
By Rajiv Ayyangar
From: Portland, ME
Mar 7, 2013

Stow - thanks for the details! I think if you thumb-stack, the crux of Beat Junkie is most definitely NOT the crack, but rather the crimps after the cave.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 16, 2013

Another trick that helps:
climb gunboat diplomacy 5.11b/c (not a favorite route of mine but...) and swing right to place draws before taking goes on Skewer (if you don't like the long-ish spacing of the bolts).... i left draws on it today but i plan to clean them when i've done the route cause it is pretty simple to set it up...
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 10, 2013

I ended up sending it this week so my draws are no longer hanging...

As for the grade... It could go either way for me, i won't complain about 12d but it could just as well be 13a... I have done 13b with less effort than this route but then again Big Kahuna took me longer than any other route ever so... who knows... if you like it, do it... :)

Really good route! I ended up just jamming the crux hand over hand... Tough crack climbing for sure! I can't wait for Beat Junky now :)