Pitch 0- scramble towards the obvious crack as high as possible. Climbing could range from 3rd class to about 5.5 here. We soloed this section (about 200ft)
Pitch 1- Climb up a hand crack towards a pod and up to some face moves (5.9) above your gear. Step right into a well protected crack. Belay at the ledge bellow the stacked blacks (110 ft).
Pitch 2- Be careful climbing up the huge detached block, continue up, step right (5.8) and continue climbing towards ledges above (90ft). PG
Pitch 3- Move up into the corner- use face and lie back moves for 180 ft of great fun. Climbing here is very enjoyable- 5.10a
Pitch 4- continue climbing up the corner. Make some lie back moves, face moves, and a short chimney/OW. When you reach the single bolt pendulum into the crack system on the right, or climb up the lichen filled 5.11ish corner to the ledge. (130ft)
Pitch 5- Stem up past the block guarding the entrance into a chimney (5.8) and chimney up. When it looks desperate climb out of the chimney to climber's left on 5.4 terrain (if you can't find protection, you must be on route). Fight rope drag up to the base of a splitter OW, hopefully without pulling any of the giant detached blocks over. (120ft)
Pitch 6- Climb up the perfect offwidth (10c) which varies in size and tests you on several techniques. There is a lot of lichen here, but it must be the best natural OW I have done in the mountains (130 ft).
Pitch 7- From the notch in the ridge climb right- up to the ridge crest (5.6). From there follow the ridge to the first (possibly true) summit (60ft). Un-rope and scramble to the other summit (3-4th class). We left the register here. Take in the views.
Several factors make it a must do for adventurous folks.
1) It has a variety of great climbing (face, chimney, hand-crack, lie-back and glorious offwidth).
2) It has amazing views of Angel Wings, Hamilton Dome, and other beautiful rock formations around Tamarack Lake
3) This climb has the feel of a remote adventure. Will not have anyone waiting at the base.
4) You are likely to get a second ascent.
5) There are other options for first ascents on this 1000 ft wall.
Route takes the natural line in the middle of the face and goes up the obvious crack.
Descent by scrambling to the back side of the formation and rapelling into the notch. Walk down the steep dirt/slab and around the formation towards your camp.
Set of cams .3-4 doubles
|By J. Albers|
Nov 7, 2012
Great addition Toby!!! Nice work with the description and the photos. This is on my list. Cheers.
Nov 9, 2012
Thank you. My real name is not really Toby ;) But this is a cool, semi-remote alpine route. Tests your route finding on approach, different crack climbing skills, and has only 1 line on the whole formation! Hope those who come after us do their lines ground up as well.