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 ADVANCED
(2) Hanging Gardens
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
B.F.D. T 
Chockstone Chimney T,TR 
Edges and Ledges T,TR 
From Something to Nothing S 
Fun in the Mud T,S 
Giant's Staircase T,TR 
Grace and Danger T,TR 
Hammer, The T,TR 
Hanging Gardens Route T 
Hobbit Hole T 
Loose Block Overhang T 
Sandy's Direct T 
Scorpion Seam S 
Sesame Street T 
Sickle, The T,TR 
Slapfest S 
slow drag (loose block overhang variation) T 
So Embarrassing T 
Tips City T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Sickle 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 2,838
Submitted By: Mark Goodro on May 14, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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BETA PHOTO: The Sickle 5.8
I'm not sure if the lower section i...

Description 

Short curving offwidth crack that starts 30 ft up the Hanging Garden wall to the right of Edges and Ledges. Can be top-roped or led from the ground up.


Location 

Route is about 10 ft to the right of Edges and Ledges. The anchor can be reached by hiking around from behind, or the route can be started by first climbing the lower wall to the ledge at base of the Sickle Crack.


Protection 

Standard rack. Bolted anchor at the top, shared with The Hammer.



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By BenCooper
From: Wyoming
May 18, 2009

The upper portion of Sickle is awesome. Great jams deep in the sickle-crack, great gear, and solid rock. The bottom portion presents many options, and I'm not sure whether these are different routes or simply alternate starts. I did a start to the right of what is shown as the red-dashed line in the photo. Nice finger locks and jugs, probably around 5.8.

Get on it! It's a great route.

By Teh Phuzzy
Jul 18, 2010

The bottom option presented is a 5.8. Step over two columns and you get a .9 option. And two more over is the "standard" route at .7 (all PRC)

The 8 is the most fun IMHO, but there is fun stemming all over if you are 6'+ and do yoga.

Great climb.

By Teh Phuzzy
Jul 18, 2010

life is full of choices
life is full of choices

By Teh Phuzzy
Jul 18, 2010

And, the Hammer has its own set of anchors

By Bryan Hall
From: Bend, Oregon
Jun 12, 2012

All three starts to this route are fun. The 5.8 did seem the best. According to the Portland Rock Climbing book you need pro to 4" for this route. This is totally untrue, a #2 and #3 camalot provide great protection for the crux. Enjoy some awesome fist jams through the curving crack!

By Burk S.
From: Lebanon, Oregon
Jun 28, 2012

I did the thin crack between the 8 and 9 and really liked it. It takes small gear well, however, it was a weeping a bit after a few days of rain followed by one day of sunshine.