The Shunned 5.9+
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BETA PHOTO: Photo/topo for The Tombstones, Horseman's Center
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Description Third bolt line from the left. I felt that The Shunned was fairly difficult for the grade, maybe more like .10a, and it wanders a bit. Start right of the first bolt, on thin edges, working to the left after the first bolt to get atop the ledge. Clip the second bolt and then: If you have a reach above 7-6 you can work straight up and grab the lower knob. Since my reach is about 7-2 I had to traverse right from the ledge, working up on thin edges, then back to the left to gain the knobs and position for the third bolt. From there its easy sailing to the anchor. A bit heady on lead but a fun climb! Rappel to descend.
Protection 3 bolts, bolted anchor
By 72HW
Jan 12, 2009
rating: 5.9+
| I heard today that there used to be a chicken head on the overhanging mantle bit to get to the second bolt that may have made this route a 5.9, but that knob is long gone. I was also told that the holds further up have degraded, making the moves higher up even more exciting.
5.9 may not be realistic any longer. Though I do not consider myself a solid 10 leader, I am reconsidering my rating of this climb.... I tend to agree that 10a may in fact be closer to the truth.
I plan to re-lead it with a fresh head and see if my memories of the difficulties are valid. |
By Tristan B
From: La Crescenta, CA
Oct 31, 2009
| I almos had to go for a dyno to hit a hold on this route but then found a little undercling/sidepull that helped me get up higher. |
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Feb 18, 2010
rating: 5.9
| A couple of cruxes on this one. |
By Chris Asencio
From: Hesperia, CA
Oct 18, 2011
rating: 5.9+
| This climb definateley takes some thinking, It felt border line 5.10a for this area of short climbs. |
By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 23, 2012
rating: 5.9
| Thin edges down low gain a crack of sorts that's pinched and liebacked to reach some jugs and then finishes up a short section of delicate face to anchors. |
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