The Shuffle

Ever wonder about the wicked arete featured in the poster at Desert Rock Sports? The Shuffle is it.

Begin 100' right of the start of Epinephrine.

P1, P2, P3: As for Texas Hold 'Em. Scramble 50' up and left across 5.0 ledges just left of a huge, hanging left-facing dihedral high above. Optional Belay on a large ledge with lots of bushes, otherwise: scramble left through the bushes to a small left-facing corner, up this and then traverse back right across a slab to a higher, small, left-facing corner/arete. Up this, passing a bolt, and continue more easily to a great belay ledge with bolted anchor. 130' to this point and a good place to stop and belay. Or, with an 80m rope, continue. From here, head up the slab above, then diagonal rightwards across the slab (#2 or #3 Camalots in horizontals) until reaching the previously mentioned huge, hanging left-facing dihedral just above a tree. Climb this to near it's top where there is a bolt up and left and another one up and right (the righthand one is situated above a shelf). Either way goes, but I find the righthand variation both easier and more direct. Belay just above at a good ledge with a bolted anchor. 260' to this point. Continue up the left-facing corner right of the belay to a huge, bushy terrace. Cut right through the bushes and belay on gear below a water-polished groove/crack feature at the right end of the terrace. 400' to this point and most of the climbing on these pitches checks in at 5.8.

P4 (5.10, 80'): Climb up the water-polished groove, but where Texas Hold 'Em moves left, continue up and right. Eventually this path dead-ends at a roof; step left to a mini-arete and follow a seam up to a bolted anchor beneath the business.

P5 (5.13a, 80'): Climb the amazing arete via some thin and possibly reachy moves, keeping mostly to the left side of the arete to a small rooflet and stance. Gather yourself and move right around the arete to the radically overhanging side and bust a few powerful moves before grabbing the brick and swinging back left. Continue through a v-slot to an airy belay perch. 8 bolts and an optional #2 Camalot protect, but an attentive belay is essential as falls from high on the crux could land you on the ominous slabby wall behind you. Fantastic climbing.

Two options for here - excellent, difficult climbing up the original line, or step right to the incredible Golden Desert pitch:

P6 Original (5.11c. 90'): Climb the obvious left facing corner until you're standing on a decent ledge/stance in the corner looking up at the crack slamming shut a couple of feet above you. Place some gear here with slings, then reach high and right to jugs around the arete/out right of the corner. Climb straight up this groove with no gear, but on generally positive holds until you merge back with the main crack system 20' higher. Follow a finger crack up to a hanging flake to gain the anchor ledge. 5.11c, 90'.

P7 Original (5.13a/b, 75'): Layback and squeeze up the thin splitter seam on the face using the arete for balance. Cut hard left to a hand rail at about 30 feet, then follow an easier fingers to thin hands flake to the anchor below the final pitch of Tri Tip. Bring many 0.0, 0.1, and 0.2 pieces. 

P6 Golden Desert Variation (5.12a PG13, 150'): From the belay above the 5.13 arete, move left, clipping a bolt to access a steep, exposed flake system. Committing climbing up these large and sometimes hollow features brings the climber a few good rests and ultimately to a cruxy thin crack that is difficult to protect. Higher the crack opens up and accepts better gear and more of one's fingers. A rightwards crack switch and a romp up blocks leads to an anchor below the final pitch of Tri Tip. Wild position. 

Rap with two ropes or with a single 80m plus some shenanigans.

N.B. There is a rather fragile and important hold on the 5.13 pitch where one turns the corner that has already broken once - use care. Hint: this is a foothold - don't even touch it with your hands.