BETA PHOTO: Routes from L->R: Apathetic Womb Reap...
The Shrine of Vanity has an assortment of wider cracks and slots as well as some slab climbs.
Most climbs here are 5.7 and below, although there are a few slightly tougher routes. Of the 11 routes listed in B. Gillett's excellent 2009 guide, some are bolted and some are not. There are several sets of rap anchors, so finding an easy way off the top of gear routes is simple.
The rock seems to get good sun all year round, which might be one of the most appealing aspects of this crag. The routes don't seem to see much traffic and tend to be flaky with a moderate amount of lichen, dirt, etc. As Gillett notes, many of these routes might be one star-worthy when they "clean up a bit."
Park at the picnic area just over 3.5 miles up the canyon (from the T-intersection in Lyons), cross the road and follow the creek bed ("Deadman's Gulch") until it dog-legs left. Go uphill and right, trending toward Dance Hall of the Dead. Go around either left or right of DHotD; both approaches are straightforward but may be loose. The left route is probably easier and has a decently visible trail.
It may be a 20-30 minute hike depending on your speed.
Begin at the thin crack, up onto the slab, you'll see the first bolt at least 15' above. You can protect your start with a small cam in the horizontal crack.For the upper sections, smaller cams and medium/large nuts can be used. You may find a place to put #1-4 C4s.The anchor seems to be in fair condition, but it's a chain and rap hook (i.e. two bolts). The chain is not at the same height as the hook though, and the rap hook is closed too much to get much in, except perhaps 3mm cord, wh...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
By Hiro From: Boulder, CO Jun 30, 2012 CONDITION REPORT
Walked all over this area today looking for The Shrine of Vanity. The trails down by the creek are easy to find, but trails heading up to The Shrine are difficult to find, we were basically doing cross country sometimes, then we'd find the/a trail again.
Unlike the few other areas I've climbed in the canyon, the ratings here are not Eldo style or old school. Was happy to find that getting on a 5.8 trad route was indeed an easy climb, not a sandbagged 5.10.
Lovely views from up top. A bit hard to see the incoming weather - we sat through summer showers and wind, fortunately all that just passed overhead and left us sunny again.