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The Shire

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The Shire  


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Administrators: saxfiend, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: russellHOBART on Mar 18, 2008
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Description 

Various moderates on east facing wall

Getting There 

Go to Sore Heel parking lot. Hike trail going SE that crosses river. Pass several trails that cut to the right until you see that wall (which generally faces north) is facing east. More moderate climbs will be to climbers left.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.3 miles from here

7 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Shire:
Audie   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Miranda Rayne   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
Browse More Classics in The Shire

Featured Route For The Shire
Days after the FA <br />Jen by me

Miranda Rayne 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  KY : Red River Gorge : The Shire
Start up right side of Rock house. Straight up on pockets and plates, fight the pump over a final roof to the chains. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in KY

Local Information for The Shire
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Comments on The Shire Add Comment
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By sgauss
May 28, 2008
Note that the instructions in the guidebook to this crag are confusing at best, and there is a problem with the topo. The key is to follow the right fork in the trail at the big boulder after the road changes to a foot path. And realize that route number 1, "My Name is Earl", 5.11c, is about 30 feet uphill on a corner from where it's marked, and the topo numbers, at least for routes 1-6 should be numbered 2-7.
By danpierce
From: Cleveland, OH
Jun 3, 2008
The guide book offers a good description of how to find this area. Once parked in the Sore Heel area take the trail at the end of the parking lot that goes across the stream. Stay on the trail until it breaks to a foot path. There will be a 'fin shaped boulder' on the left at a fork in the trail. Veer right. Then take the first small trail on your left hand side. The trail hits the wall right in the middle. You have 2 5.10's right in front of you. There is a project and a 5.10d to the right. The rest of the climbs are to the left.

If you take the left side of the trail when you hit the wall and walk past the first face you hit the North 40 wall.
By sgauss
Sep 2, 2008
The trail was redone as part of the Trails Day since I was there in May. There was a bunch of work done to block climber trails, make the main branch more obvious, plus the trail nicely switch backs, which should limit erosion. The path leads in towards the base of the wall below the rockhouse.