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02. Simpson Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bart Direct T 
Barts Crack T 
Crusty T 
Ground's Keeper Willy 
Homer T 
Iron Butterfly T 
Lisa's Crack T 
Little Maggie T 
Marge T 
Mr. Burns TR 
Set The Controls For The Heart Of The Sun TR 
Ships Prow, The T 
Side Show Bob TR 
Smithers T 

The Ships Prow 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: PS and PD 1995
Page Views: 162
Submitted By: Jonathan Spencer on Nov 24, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Here's a different perspective of this sweet expos...

Private Property - Access Sensitive MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb up a blocky face past gear and one pin to a ledge. Clip a bolt and climb straight up the face to gain the prominent arete and another bolt. Finish up the arete. No anchors on top, belay off gear (Careful-blocky and possibly loose) or tree.

It is slightly run out between the first and second bolt.

Location 

The farthest route downstream in the Simpson's area.

Protection 

Standard rack, pin, 2 bolts, No anchors


Photos of The Ships Prow Slideshow Add Photo
The Ships Prow
BETA PHOTO: The Ships Prow

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By Jay Shultis
Administrator
From: Blacksburg VA
Jun 22, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

What is this, what are the details?
By P. Sully
Oct 16, 2012

The correct name is The Ship's Prow. 5.10 mixed route on a prominent arete.

Climb up a blocky face past gear and one pin to a ledge. Clip a bolt and climb straight up the face to gain the arete and another bolt. Finish up the arete. No anchors on top, belay off gear or tree.

The backside (upstream) side of this formation is a 5.12 top-rope route called "set the controls for the heart of the sun". hard finger cracks at the top of this one. Fun to TR if you do Ships.

This is the farthest route downstream in the Simpson's area.

It is slightly run out between the first and second bolt. FA: PS & PD '95
By Jay Shultis
Administrator
From: Blacksburg VA
Jan 17, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The photo of this route is very foreshortened. The face climbing at the top is about 30' and looks like 10 in this photo. This may be another candidate for new hardware, pin is rusted (probably don't need it) and top-anchors are pretty tricky. Belaying from the large tree back off the cliff can cause some potential for a dangerous swing at the topout. Great route! I have TR'd the arete and a direct face climb to the left of the arete 10' that is thin and sustained, another ~10c.