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The Shield

Select Route:
Bold Talk for a One-Eyed Fat Man S 
Deep Prok S 
Fly on a Windshield T 
French Route T,S 
Prok T 
Real Gravy T 
Runamuck T 
Stranger Than Friction T 

The Shield  


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Location: 30.5083, -98.8193 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,477
Administrators: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Sep 16, 2006
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E-Rock has world class slab cragging and this is t...

Description 

The Shield is the largest and steepest area along the Backside of the Main Dome. It is home to most of the difficult, run out slab routes in the park. The wall is basically divided into two sections. The right side (from Nobody Like Bryant Gumbel to the obvious Runamuck arch) consists of shorter routes in the 5.7 and 5.8 realm. This somewhat confusing area has also been called the Prok Wall in honor of all of the routes with "Prok" somewhere in their name. Almost all of these routes require gear with the occasional bolt here and there. Protection ranges from nonexistent to good. The left side of the wall (from Fly on a Windshield to Carpet Crawl) boasts steep, bolted slab routes in the 5.10 to 5.12 range.

Getting There 

As for the other areas along the Backside, follow the Echo Canyon trail through the Main Dome - Little Dome saddle, down the draw, and through the boulders at the bottom. There is a well used hiking trail that leads out from the boulders, loops to the right (northeast), and continues around the entire dome. Follow the trail to the marker for the blue climbers' trail and turn right. Once you reach the base of the dome, the majority of the Shield will be to your left. The Runamuck arch on the right side of the wall makes a good landmark. You can reach any climb along the Shield (as well as the areas immediately adjacent to it) by following the trail along the base of the wall.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.2 miles from here

8 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',2],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',3],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Shield:
Runamuck   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R     Trad, 1 pitch   
Deep Prok   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Fly on a Windshield   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
Stranger Than Friction   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Bold Talk for a One-Eyed Fat Man   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R     Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   
French Route   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 170'   
Browse More Classics in The Shield

Featured Route For The Shield
Embarking on Bold Talk...unfortunately the batteri...

Bold Talk for a One-Eyed Fat Man 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : ... : The Shield
Taken from the Dome Drivers Manual : "From the first tree left of Gravitron, climb sustained 5.10 crystals past the overlap and the first two bolts. The crux is the 25-foot bulge leading to the third bolt. This section starts with steep edging and ends with small crystals. Climb left to the forth bolt and then embark on a 45-foot run-out of 5.9+ to the fifth bolt. Just above is a double-bolt belay with a ledge stance."This is an outstanding pitch that really isn't as scary as the description sou...[more]   Browse More Classics in TX

Comments on The Shield Add Comment
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By Superclimber
Jan 21, 2014
CONDITION REPORT 
ATTENTION: There are many places in the park where you can NOT rap or lower with a 60 Meter rope. In some places not even a 70 Meter rope will make it. Do not assume you can rap or lower off of anything safely even with a 70.

You can not rappel or lower off of Proc Wall, Ripple, Boston, Kraken, or Devil's slide (Mark of the Beast & Harder Than it Looks) with a 60. If you are climbing in any of these areas you must walk off, take two ropes, or find the rap bolts in the alcove above News Wall. A 60 Meter rope will make it from the designated News Wall rappel anchors.

The News Wall anchors are intended as a designated rap station for the Backside. They do not protect any specific climb, nor are they intended for you to hang a rope on and spend the day occupying. These anchors are there specifically as a descent route for parties climbing the Backside.

There are no sport clips anywhere in the park. Basic anchor building skills are pretty much required to climb at Enchanted Rock.