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The Crag Ranch
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Sheep Buggerer, The 
Throwin' the Shit Fit 

The Sheep Buggerer 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Head Crew
Page Views: 256
Submitted By: Paul Heyliger on Mar 14, 2006
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Description 

Gain access to Sun Deck Ledge (the broad ledge that yields access to the routes on the Northern sector of the Crag Ranch). SB is the third route from the left taking the unpleasant-looking left-facing corner.

Grunt your way up this awkward corner to a hands-off rest below a small bulge with excellent rock. Campus-style moves on nice door-jam edges comprise the brief crux to the anchors. Most of this route is less than pleasant, but the crux sequence at the top makes this route worth doing.


Location 

The Crag Ranch is on the same ridge as the fire tower. From the meadow, follow cairns south and slightly east. Target Sun Deck Ledge by aiming for a massive vertical ``bullet'' formation. Access to the ledge is just right of this formation.


Protection 

About a half-dozen draws to the anchors.



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By slim
Administrator
Jul 20, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

this would be a good first project route for somebody breaking into the grade. it is fairly short, there is easy access to the anchors for toproping/scoping/hanging draws/retrieving draws/etc. the crux is pretty straightforward and it is well protected. a nice selection of other routes on the sundeck ledge for your partner to climb while you work this one. do it!