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 ADVANCED
Gibraltar Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Any Minute Now T 
Broken Mirror S 
Crank Start S 
Inner Tube Toes TR 
Jabberwocky  S 
Klingon T 
Ladder, The T 
Mid-Face T 
Nose, The T,TR 
Sea of Holes T,TR 
Self Reflection T,S 
Shard, The S 
T-Crack T,TR 
Variation of the Midface T,TR 

The Shard 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b R

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Bernd Zeugswetter and Andy Patterson, February 16, 2013
New Route: Yes
Season: Catch it in the shade for best conditions, or in the winter sun.
Page Views: 748
Submitted By: andy patterson on Feb 17, 2013

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Hand-drawn topo. Sorry, I can't afford a camera, a...

Description 

This is the newest addition to the strenuous, brilliantly fun, and run-out sport climbs on Gibraltar. Like its neighbors, Broken Mirror and The Jabberwocky, The Shard climbs the beautiful swooping features of Gibraltar's left-hand face, beginning from an incredibly exposed stance belay (my favorite anywhere), and then following a slabby dihedral that will make you want to vomit—unless, of course, you figure out the beta. After the dihedral crux, perform a powerful "slab-dyno" about six feet left, and join the fourth bolt of Broken Mirror, and finish on Self Reflection.

Get ready: this line is significantly harder and better than Broken Mirror and The Jabberwocky—no small order, considering the caliber of those routes. In case the "R" rating scares you, this route differs from its neighbors in that ALL the hard moves are at or below bolts. The runout section is only 5.6/5.7 or so.

Location 

Starts from a two-bolt stance belay about fifteen feet right of Broken Mirror's hanging belay.

Protection 

7 bolts. Draws.


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By Jan Roestel
Feb 19, 2013

Awesome Andy!
My wife and I had just finished climbing over on Lower Gibraltar when we heard the woo-hoo of success. Looking at the ropeline from across the ravine, I thought, "cool someone is on Jabberwocky or Broken Mirror." Way to go on the new line!
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Feb 19, 2013

Nice job, Andy!
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Feb 19, 2013

Thanks, guys.

There were certainly some yells of success/elation. I was so relieved! I felt iffy on the LAST crimp moves of the Self Reflection headwall, and was thinking to myself "man, if I slipped right now, it's sure going to suck to have to do all that again..."
By Sean Crozier
Jul 27, 2013

First off i'd like to say, "holy sh*t this route is fun".
Second, The Shard? More like THE SWARM!!!! I found myself bored today like I often do during summer. Then I remembered back in Febuary, Andy told me he just did a new climb on Gibralter, and said something about runout face climbing, slab dynos and that I should give it a try. So I went up there to give it a run on TR with my solo device and got all the way to the way to the slab dyno. I hucked for it kinda half-hassed and got one hand in the slot and fell. Then out of slot about 100 wasps came roaring out!! I Batmaned my way up that rope and out of there!
Anyway it's a great route Andy. Just thought I would give the heads-up, and a cheap laugh.
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jul 27, 2013

Wasps?! What?! That hyper-sucks. Please go back later and give it a go. I promise it will be worth it.
By Sean Crozier
Jul 27, 2013

I bet. The climbing is fantastic! I'm gonna go back for it. That's definately one of the best routes in SB!!
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Feb 9, 2014

There's officially no wasps on The Shard. The little buggers have moved on.