The Shard 5.12c R
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12c [details] |
| FA: | Bernd Zeugswetter and Andy Patterson, February 16, 2013 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | Catch it in the shade for best conditions, or in the winter sun. |
| Submitted By: | andy patterson on Feb 17, 2013 |
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Description This is the newest addition to the strenuous, brilliantly fun, and run-out sport climbs on Gibraltar. Like its neighbors, Broken Mirror and The Jabberwocky, The Shard climbs the beautiful swooping features of Gibraltar's left-hand face, beginning from an incredibly exposed stance belay (my favorite anywhere), and then following a slabby dihedral that will make you want to vomit—unless, of course, you figure out the beta. After the dihedral crux, perform a powerful "slab-dyno" about six feet left, and join the fourth bolt of Broken Mirror, and finish on Self Reflection.
Get ready: this line is significantly harder and better than Broken Mirror and The Jabberwocky—no small order, considering the caliber of those routes.
Location Starts from a two-bolt stance belay about fifteen feet right of Broken Mirror's hanging belay.
Protection 7 bolts. Draws.
By Jan Roestel
Feb 19, 2013
| Awesome Andy!
My wife and I had just finished climbing over on Lower Gibraltar when we heard the woo-hoo of success. Looking at the ropeline from across the ravine, I thought, "cool someone is on Jabberwocky or Broken Mirror." Way to go on the new line! |
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Feb 19, 2013
| Nice job, Andy! |
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Feb 19, 2013
| Thanks, guys.
There were certainly some yells of success/elation. I was so relieved! I felt iffy on the LAST crimp moves of the Self Reflection headwall, and was thinking to myself "man, if I slipped right now, it's sure going to suck to have to do all that again..." |
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