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Right of the Escalator
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Shadow, The T 

The Shadow 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Charlie Raymond, February 1968
Page Views: 548
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Feb 2, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: The Shadow (5.8R)

Description 

This route starts with well-protected, secure liebacks. Higher up, there is a novel lieback (crux) with a committing runout. The rock is good, and the moves are fun. Rappel 120 feet from near the top.

Protection 

standard rack


Photos of The Shadow Slideshow Add Photo
A pin at the bush right before the run-out section. You can protect above this with really small gear (Black Alien, or C3 000). Some wires would also work too.
BETA PHOTO: A pin at the bush right before the run-out section...

Comments on The Shadow Add Comment
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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Feb 4, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

While it may be runout, for some reason it goes fast without a necessary feeling of insecurity.
By Shawn Mitchell
From: Broomfield
Jul 18, 2009

Weird how age changes your climbing style. In my teens in the late 70's, the crux trough was physical, sloppy, and insecure: Lean right against hands palming the rounded edge, and smear-walk my feet up the left side wall.

Back this spring after 30 years, I looked for the same combination, and didn't really feel it. But right of the trough, I saw and used a number of edges and nubs that made it a kind of technical, tricky, static and angled crimpy. It was rated 7 then, but felt scary. Still does...but totally different moves.
By Isaac Shirley
Mar 11, 2014

I did this route for the first time the other day and although I had to run it out a bit I don't think a person with the right gear would have to. There are about three rather evenly spaced pin-scars on the upper section that if you brought some very narrow headed cams along would make excellent placements. I was able to place a #1C3 in the first because of how narrow the head is and two lobes of a blue master cam in the other. I think a similarly sized tricam would work even better due to the narrow head and flexible stem.