|Right of the Escalator
This route starts with well-protected, secure liebacks. Higher up, there is a novel lieback (crux) with a committing runout. The rock is good, and the moves are fun. Rappel 120 feet from near the top.
BETA PHOTO: A pin at the bush right before the run-out section...
|By Adam Stackhouse|
Feb 4, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
While it may be runout, for some reason it goes fast without a necessary feeling of insecurity.
|By Shawn Mitchell|
Jul 18, 2009
Weird how age changes your climbing style. In my teens in the late 70's, the crux trough was physical, sloppy, and insecure: Lean right against hands palming the rounded edge, and smear-walk my feet up the left side wall.
Back this spring after 30 years, I looked for the same combination, and didn't really feel it. But right of the trough, I saw and used a number of edges and nubs that made it a kind of technical, tricky, static and angled crimpy. It was rated 7 then, but felt scary. Still does...but totally different moves.
|By Isaac Shirley|
Mar 11, 2014
I did this route for the first time the other day and although I had to run it out a bit I don't think a person with the right gear would have to. There are about three rather evenly spaced pin-scars on the upper section that if you brought some very narrow headed cams along would make excellent placements. I was able to place a #1C3 in the first because of how narrow the head is and two lobes of a blue master cam in the other. I think a similarly sized tricam would work even better due to the narrow head and flexible stem.