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Shadow, The T 

The Shadow 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Charlie Raymond, February 1968
Page Views: 668
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Feb 2, 2006

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Peter Hayes leading the crux section of the Shadow...

Description 

This route starts with well-protected, secure liebacks. Higher up, there is a novel lieback (crux) with a committing runout. The rock is good, and the moves are fun. Rappel 120 feet from near the top.

Protection 

standard rack


Photos of The Shadow Slideshow Add Photo
The Shadow (5.8R)
BETA PHOTO: The Shadow (5.8R)
A pin at the bush right before the run-out section...
BETA PHOTO: A pin at the bush right before the run-out section...
Easy terrain near the belay. ca. 1981.
Easy terrain near the belay. ca. 1981.

Comments on The Shadow Add Comment
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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Feb 4, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

While it may be runout, for some reason it goes fast without a necessary feeling of insecurity.
By Shawn Mitchell
From: Broomfield
Jul 18, 2009

Weird how age changes your climbing style. In my teens in the late 70's, the crux trough was physical, sloppy, and insecure: Lean right against hands palming the rounded edge, and smear-walk my feet up the left side wall.

Back this spring after 30 years, I looked for the same combination, and didn't really feel it. But right of the trough, I saw and used a number of edges and nubs that made it a kind of technical, tricky, static and angled crimpy. It was rated 7 then, but felt scary. Still does...but totally different moves.
By Isaac Shirley
Mar 11, 2014

I did this route for the first time the other day and although I had to run it out a bit I don't think a person with the right gear would have to. There are about three rather evenly spaced pin-scars on the upper section that if you brought some very narrow headed cams along would make excellent placements. I was able to place a #1C3 in the first because of how narrow the head is and two lobes of a blue master cam in the other. I think a similarly sized tricam would work even better due to the narrow head and flexible stem.
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