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The Shack / Standby Shack

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
32 Flavors S 
40-Love S 
A Thousand Yards of Drift (just the start) S 
A Thousand Yards of Drift (the whole route) S 
Asian Whore S 
Baileys con Ridge S 
Big City Girl S 
Block of Life S 
City Girl S 
Crispy the Renegade S 
Endurance S 
Fire on The Mountain S 
Frogger S 
Galaga S 
Legend of the Fall ("LRP" Variant) S 
Live to Pull S 
Look Reach Pull S 
Pull to Live S 
Renaissance Man T,S 
Renaissance/ Lower Rosie S 
Ring Around The Rosie S 
Standing on the Edge of Extinction S 
Tupper-Where S 
Urban Legend S 
We Were Jumpers Once and Young S 
We were jumpers to endurance T,S 
Whole Lotta Rosie T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Shack / Standby Shack 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 35.8132, -106.1444 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,125
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Aaron Miller on Aug 3, 2013
Forecast:
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map and trail

Description 

This is a new crag located on the back side of Diablo Mesa, the same Mesa with the Solar Cave and Winter Wall, just the northeast aspect. The climbing starts where you see a large detached pinnacle that, between it and the walls, forms a nice little valley to hang out and watch the sports action.

The Shack is best climbed in warm seasons as it gets full shade all morning until about 2pm. In the Summer, you will be hiking out when the sun hits. But it does stay nice and cool all day so it is a pleasant Summer crag. There are currently 20+ routes here with some further potential for a few more quality lines. The presence of a handful of routes in the 5.13 range at this crag is also a nice addition to the Santa Fe sport climbing scene.

Many of the routes require a stick to clip the first bolt.


Getting There 

The crag is not visible from the road. Drive past the main Diablo parking area and when you are about to pass Diablo Mesa all together, look for a pullout on either right or left side of the road in arroyos.

A trail begins on the other side of the arroyo and heads up a gulley then traverses out to the nose of a prominent ridge detached from the main cliffband.

When parking on the roadside, beware of sandy berms pushed up by the graders, several 2WD trucks have gotten stuck in these berms. Best to have AWD or 4WD or park further up the road where you can pull off without berms(across form the pump station). You can also bring a shovel and easily clear a little path for your car to clear the berm. If in a 2WD truck, BRING A SHOVEL!


Climbing Season


27 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',3],['5.10',2],['5.11',8],['5.12',11],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Shack / Standby Shack:
Frogger   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
A Thousand Yards of Drift (just the start)   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Endurance   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
32 Flavors   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   
Standing on the Edge of Extinction   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Fire on The Mountain   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Pull to Live   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Crispy the Renegade   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Block of Life   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Galaga   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Live to Pull   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
40-Love   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
We Were Jumpers Once and Young   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 2 pitches, 130'   
Browse More Classics in The Shack / Standby Shack

Featured Route For The Shack / Standby Shack
Fun moves on Live to Pull.

Live to Pull 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  NM : Santa Fe Area : ... : The Shack / Standby Shack
Technical start up to dihedral corner, then technical transition to face, then pumpy steep climbing to ledge anchors.Great Route!!! Will challenge all your skills....[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of The Shack / Standby Shack Slideshow Add Photo
Topo photo of the Shack
BETA PHOTO: Topo photo of the Shack
topo of shack
BETA PHOTO: topo of shack
Comments on The Shack / Standby Shack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Eric Whitbeck
May 9, 2014

The area looks great and I am looking forward to checking it out this weekend. However, on my computer screen the topo photos are nearly impossible to read. Any chance Aaron can switch the color of the text? Maybe it is just my screen or my old age. Bifocals are next.

Thanks for sharing the beta and putting up what look like great routes.
EW