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The Standby Shack (a.k.a. The Shack)

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Dog House, The 
Entrance Pinnacle 
Live Sector 
Renaissance Sector 
Renegade Sector 

The Standby Shack (a.k.a. The Shack)  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 35.8132, -106.1444 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,904
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Aaron Miller on Aug 3, 2013
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Description 

This is a new crag located on the back side of Diablo Mesa, the same Mesa with the Solar Cave and Winter Wall, just the northeast aspect. The climbing starts where you see a large detached pinnacle that, between it and the walls, forms a nice little valley to hang out and watch the sports action.

The Shack is best climbed in warm seasons as it gets full shade all morning until about 2pm. In the Summer, you will be hiking out when the sun hits. But it does stay nice and cool all day so it is a pleasant Summer crag. There are currently 20+ routes here with some further potential for a few more quality lines. The presence of a handful of routes in the 5.13 range at this crag is also a nice addition to the Santa Fe sport climbing scene.

The main west facing wall is broken up into three sectors. The northern-most (left end) is the Renegade Sector. The middle section is the Live Sector. The southern-most (right end) is the Renaissance Sector.

Many of the routes require a stick to clip the first bolt.

Getting There 

The crag is not visible from the road. Drive past the main Diablo parking area and when you are about to pass Diablo Mesa all together, look for a pullout on either right or left side of the road in arroyos.

A trail begins on the other side of the arroyo and heads up a gulley then traverses out to the nose of a prominent ridge detached from the main cliffband.

When parking on the roadside, beware of sandy berms pushed up by the graders, several 2WD trucks have gotten stuck in these berms. Best to have AWD or 4WD or park further up the road where you can pull off without berms(across form the pump station). You can also bring a shovel and easily clear a little path for your car to clear the berm. If in a 2WD truck, BRING A SHOVEL!

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.8 miles from here

30 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',17],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',4],['5.10',4],['5.11',8],['5.12',11],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Standby Shack (a.k.a. The Shack):
Frogger   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Live Sector
DogGone It   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 70'   The Dog House
A Thousand Yards of Drift (just the start)   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Live Sector
32 Flavors   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Renegade Sector
Endurance   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   Renegade Sector
Fire on The Mountain   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Renegade Sector
Standing on the Edge of Extinction   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Renegade Sector
Tupper-Where   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Renegade Sector
Pull to Live   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Live Sector
Block of Life   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Live Sector
Crispy the Renegade   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Renegade Sector
Galaga   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Live Sector
Live to Pull   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Live Sector
40-Love   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Renegade Sector
We Were Jumpers Once and Young   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 2 pitches, 130'   Renegade Sector
Urban Legend   5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Live Sector
Browse More Classics in The Standby Shack (a.k.a. The Shack)

Featured Route For The Standby Shack (a.k.a. The Shack)
Leo moves from the easy slab to clean  steeper roc...

DogGone It 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  NM : Santa Fe Area : ... : The Dog House
Rightmost route at present. Start up blobby vertical rock that looks loose but is solid. Continue up the easy slab to a vertical face characterized by high feet and long reaches to good holds. A final steep section offers some more technical feet and some fun pocket pulling to the chains....[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of The Standby Shack (a.k.a. The Shack) Slideshow Add Photo
Topo photo of the Shack
BETA PHOTO: Topo photo of the Shack
topo of shack
BETA PHOTO: topo of shack

Comments on The Standby Shack (a.k.a. The Shack) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Eric Whitbeck
May 9, 2014
The area looks great and I am looking forward to checking it out this weekend. However, on my computer screen the topo photos are nearly impossible to read. Any chance Aaron can switch the color of the text? Maybe it is just my screen or my old age. Bifocals are next.

Thanks for sharing the beta and putting up what look like great routes.
EW
By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Oct 13, 2014
How about lumping the Live, Renaissance, and Renegade sectors back into one area? I agree with sorting out the Dog House and entrance pinnacle, but the other areas being separated when it is one wall adds to the confusion for me.
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 13, 2014
+1 i think Disturbing's idea re: organization would be more user friendly, the main Shack cliff seems more like a single wall to me. -GP