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The Severed Garden 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Magnus Wiklund - 2006
Page Views: 345
Submitted By: Ryan Williams on May 17, 2010

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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start on the ledge at the far left end of the wall. Jump for the first jugs. Sustained 5.11 in the first half, gently overhanging, big moves and big holds. Pull into the technical crux on steep rock... hang on to the tiny holds! You get an awkward rest just before a tricky move at the anchor.

Location 

Upper Left Sector. From the trail go left. Pass the loose section of rock, and pass the Left Sector. When you get to a horizontal tree and a patch of vegetation growing up the wall, keep going. From the vegetation to the end of the wall (climbers right to left) the climbs go as follows:

- Sol y Sombra
- Picking Beans in Guatemala
- Sud Yawt (P2. The Usual Suspects)
- Crisis? What Crisis?
- Spanish Caravan
- The Severed Garden

"Crisis..." splits the sector in half. "Spanish Caravan" and "Severed Garden" are up the hill a bit on a ledge.

Protection 

Slings and Petzl Glue Ins. 8 draws.


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By Pascal Ripoche
From: Pittsburgh PA
Mar 7, 2011

WARNING: the third protection is a thread around a really small bit of rock. That means a possible ground fall if falling while clipping the fourth protection. The fourth protection is a good titanium with red glue (the good glue).
By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From: London (sort of)
Mar 11, 2011

FWIW I've seen whips onto that thread... it's OK... but it is kind of scary looking.

And the bolts are Petzl Stainless Steel. They are bomber because they are new and have red glue... but they are NOT Titanium.