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The Serpent 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Louie Anderson (2003)
Page Views: 1,090
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Sep 30, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Banks crushin' the first pitch of the Serpent.

Grotto and Lookout closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Pitch 1 (5.6)
Climb up a loose, low-angle water chute to a ledge with a bolted anchor.

Pitch 2(5.10a)
Climb up over a steep bulge and then follow the low-angle face to the left-hand of 2 water shoots. A short, steeper crux section leads up the water chute to the anchor. If you stray onto bigger holds on either side of the water streak, the rock quality diminishes significantly.

Make 2 rappels with a single 60m rope.

Location 

The second obvious water chute encountered when hiking in--just past the apron of rock that sticks out at the base of Golden Years.

Protection 

8 bolts per pitch, plus a 2-bolt anchor atop each pitch


Photos of The Serpent Slideshow Add Photo
Climbers on P2 of "Harvey" (left) and P1...
Climbers on P2 of "Harvey" (left) and P1...

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By Brian in SLC
Aug 14, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Take care on the first couple of moves of P2. There's a cracked hold just above the first bolt off the belay. Make sure you're solid when you step up, and, the belayer is attentive. A fall going to the second bolt would have very bad consequences as you'd deck on/at the P2 belay (flat ledge).
By Lluis Penalver-Aguila
From: Cambridge, Massachusetts
Sep 14, 2009

The first pitch is very loose, make sure you're belayer and other people on the ground are aware of any rocks that come off.

P2 feels more like 5.8/5.9. Pulling over the roof at the P1 belay station and the finish to the anchors are the only 5.9 moves on P2. I agree, a fall just below the second bolt would land you hard at the P1 belay station. Positive but loose holds throughout.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Oct 20, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The 2nd pitch of "The Serpent" is excellent. Most of the holds seem to be very solid, positive, although small, holds. At the crux the holds to the right of the water streak seem more positive than going straight up over remaining bolts. We pulled off several large loose flakes just below the P1 anchor and cleaned and brushed the holds on the 1st pitch. The yellow-gold mineral coating in the water streak makes the holds solid, but smooth. Nice climb.
By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Feb 6, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The first pitch didn't seem near as bad (in terms of loose stuff) apparently as the routes to the right, where some shoebox size blocks were knocked off. First pitch seemed more like 5.4.