This is another good warmup in the easy alcove area of slabs on the right as you walk in (underneath and to the right of Captain America). It may not be as interesting as its 5.7 neighbor to the right, but it is worthy nonetheless. There are interesting slab moves that steepen at the top. The direct start is harder than 5.8. Expect a mob scene of families clambering away on busy weekends, but it is worth a visit when no one is around.
A very hard direct start. If you make the start slightly right it is a great friction climb as you move onto the main line. Past the ledge and continuing up the excellent finger crack. Six bolts, solid 5.8.
To clarify, this route is right of Mr. Wind, so the previous poster is correct. While I was there four of us did this and all felt it to be easier than Mr. Wind (5.7).
Once I led this and set it up as a top rope, I had my girlfriend work the friction start on the left side to get her used to that kind of foot work.
By Tim Waystrong From: New Hampshire Aug 30, 2011 rating: 5.75a15V+13MVS 4b
The direct start, I would say is 5.8. It's just strenuous movements on small holds. The right side of this is definitely 5.7.