The Serpent  5.11d A3

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Type:  Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 200 feet Consensus:  5.11d A3 [details] FA:  Drew Bedford, Kurt Fashanpaur: 1988 Submitted By:  Orphaned on Jan 10, 2003 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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On private land. MORE INFO >>> The land on which sits Black Peeler Buttress is owned by Perpetual Storage. Be respectful of private property. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

P1: Traverse to a thin seam. Climb straight up to Black Peeler. Traverse right on Black Peeler to belay at a two-bolt station.
P2: Traverse left and up a wide crack/flake (5.11a R). Belay at a two-bolt station.

This is a variation pitch to the Black Peeler. Downclimb the ramp from the Peeler Direct first pitch belay. Swing out the roof via bolts, then stretch for a placement. Climb the corner up to another ramp, then traverse to the second pitch anchor of the Peeler Direct. Make sure to protect the second when you leave the crack and free climb to the 2nd pitch anchor. Fun pitch, and a great, harder alternative to the Peeler Direct splitter.

Approach 

Approach from Black Peeler or Riveting.

Descent 

One 160' rappel from the final two-bolt station.

Protection 

Aid Rating 5.7, A3

Aid Rack: I recommend 2 hooks, 10 heads, 4 cam blades (be delicate), 16 cams (0.3"-4"), 16 nuts (0.3"-1"), 64 carabiners & 16 runners (24").

In general, thin to medium pitons. Bring some mashies along, in the event that a fixed one pulls. Regular aid rack otherwise.

Free Rack: I recommend 4 cam blades (be delicate), 16 cams (0.3"-4"), 16 nuts (0.3"-1"), 32 carabiners, 16 runners (24") & 2 brass testicles.