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Traverse to a thin seam. Climb straight up to Black Peeler
. Traverse right on Black Peeler
to belay at a two-bolt station. P2:
Traverse left and up a wide crack/flake (5.11a R). Belay at a two-bolt station.
This is a variation pitch to the Black Peeler
. Downclimb the ramp from the Peeler Direct
first pitch belay. Swing out the roof via bolts, then stretch for a placement. Climb the corner up to another ramp, then traverse to the second pitch anchor of the Peeler Direct
. Make sure to protect the second
when you leave the crack and free climb to the 2nd pitch anchor. Fun pitch, and a great, harder alternative to the Peeler Direct
One 160' rappel from the final two-bolt station.
Aid Rating 5.7, A3
Aid Rack: I recommend 2 hooks, 10 heads, 4 cam blades (be delicate), 16 cams (0.3"-4"), 16 nuts (0.3"-1"), 64 carabiners & 16 runners (24").
In general, thin to medium pitons. Bring some mashies along, in the event that a fixed one pulls. Regular aid rack otherwise.
Free Rack: I recommend 4 cam blades (be delicate), 16 cams (0.3"-4"), 16 nuts (0.3"-1"), 32 carabiners, 16 runners (24") & 2 brass testicles.
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Mar 29, 2008
Someone forgot the aid rating. Probably A3. Your mileage may vary.