| Northwest Face |
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The Sermon 5.10b
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| Type: | Trad |
| Consensus: | 5.10b [details] |
| FA: | Ron Kauk and Jim Orey, 1974. |
| Submitted By: | Blitzo on Oct 18, 2006 |
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Bad photo of the roofy start. Tough lighting cond...
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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description On the left side of the face, climb a 5.10b finger crack to a belay with a bolt.
Continue up 5.10a hands and a loose section to a belay.
A 5.9 chimney squeezes down to 5.10a offwidth. Belay at the top.
Climb class 4 to the summit.
Protection Pro to 3.5".
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Sep 11, 2007
| Blitzo, you ever done that thing?? The one bolt in the topo is probably off route and is a 1/4" rusted mess down low in the corner to the right of the direct crack line. The belay at the top of the first pitch is 2 rusted 1/4" bolts. Not very inspiring. Going over a small roof at the start is fairly hard and the pro has a way of getting right in the locks you want to use. The rest of the first pitch is mostly hands and sorta burly. We only did the first pitch (9/07) and then left you scavengers some booty gear at the anchor. The poison oak was very minimal and was not an issue on the approach. |
By Lou Hibbard
From: Eagan, MN
Oct 29, 2011
| While leading this in 2005 didn't like the established first belay so kept going to a hanging belay off of gear. |
By Bryan G
From: Yosemite
Oct 5, 2012
| Link the first two pitches and belay at the alcove in the chimney, below the 10a flare. The belay takes pro from 1.5" to 4.5". If you extend your gear, rope drag should not be an issue. Bring extra gear from 1-4" if you want to sew it up.
This climb features excellent crack jamming up wildly overhanging rock. It is the best way to the top of Pulpit Rock and is an absolute must do for any 5.10 Valley climber. The "loose section" after the hands on P2 (or top of P1 if you link them) I found is not actually that loose, and I'm a total puss when it comes to bad rock. Great rock in general. |
By Alexey
From: San Jose
Oct 29, 2012
| hardest move just off the ground, better to warm up.
double standard rack + #4.
Linking p1 and 2 make all your belay comfortable |
By Steven Cooney
Apr 12, 2013
| The route starts off a shoulder above and left of the base.
Pitch 1 is a tough boulder problem and like Russ said, gear clogs jams
and catches the rope. It is best to belay 10-15 feet
above the crux roof and arrrange a belay allowing belayer to see entire route.
The rest of the belays and climbing is tough but straightforward.
The last pitch is not 4th class. The route is a great old climb with
Beautiful exposure over the river.
Double rack to 3.5 is perfect.
The mixed sport climbs at the base are really good and make for a
full day. In particular a 5.11 fingery flake that doesn't seem too tough
After the chimney pitch of the sermon. |
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