|Black Orpheus Amphitheater
The Secret World of Arrietty climbs the arch-feature immediately left of the Plate of Fate, pulling through the massive yawning roof right at it's widest. This is a great new route with wild and burly climbing, mostly excellent rock, and great pro. No move is probably harder than 10d, but the cumulative effects of placing gear and sussing out the sequences on the fly are quite taxing - especially if you're not good with your knee bars or hand jams! Super fun and awaiting a second ascent!
Beginning immediately left of the Plate of Fate, climb the left margin of the namesake plate and, with some difficulty, pull up onto better rock above. From here the route follows a vague seam/corner passing spaced, but good, gear to a large wedged flake. There is a tricky but bomber cam placement immediately above this flake. Continue via liebacks and kneebars to a strange hole-thingy in the wall above the arch (crucial 0.75 Camalot placement). Pull past this, up and over, to a precarious stance on really nice rock - take some time to catch your breath because itís about to be game on. Moving left, step back down below the arch, and begin a wild traverse left via underclings, hand jams, and occasional jugs. Thereís not much for feet, but some Rifle-esque jessery affords much needed rests before a final, burly reach left to a large, flat hold at the lip of the arch. Mantling onto this might not be the crux Ė but it will certainly feel that way. Things may seem desperate, but the pro is good so you must go for it! You must! Once up above the arch, a thin move or two leads to the final station on the Plate of Fate rap route. Nice! Enjoy the birdís eye view of your partner struggling as you bring him/her up. Remember, a 70m cord is not long enough to lower to the ground while the rope is still running through all the gear, so rapping off is the way to go.
2 each blue Alien/0 TCU to 0.5 Camalot
1 each 0.75 to #4 Camalot
Lots of long runners
70m cord is a must for descending
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 3, 2012
This is the way all route descriptions should be written. Now photos!!!! Sounds like fun.
|By Shawn Cook|
Dec 18, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
This was a sweet pitch!! Gear beta was good. I would say it looks harder than it is, but grade is good. Sorry didn't get any pics.