Doug Olmstead on the first ascent of "Fused Chicke...
The Second Quarry is a rock of granite climbs that are almost all single pitch, but offer many tradional routes of low quality, and some sport routes of moderate quality. Most routes are in the 50 - 100 feet range.
Many of the routes on the rock are fairly new, and there are still some routes awaiting both first ascent, and also bolting, especially up harder (5.12 and up) vertical and slightly over vertcial faces.
The granite in The Second Quarry is mostly high quality granite with solid pinches and crimps, though you will find some crummy rock in chimneys and if you wander off of extablished climbs.
You will find The Second Quarry in the afternoon sun, and also in snow if it is too late in the season.
Most routes can be walked off by walking around to the right or left, but you may find it simpler to rappell off routes that have established top anchors, which many of them do.
National Forest land. No access issues, just stay out of the loggers way.
From the Car: 5 - 15 minues.From highway 108 (includes the extra gravel road driving): 7 - 25 minutes. From the intersection of highway 108 and Forest Service road 5N06 (narrow and gravel), head straight on the widest road 1.25 miles. This involves a soft left at the first fork, and staying straight at the second which is in sight from the first fork. The road will wind around for a while, going up a gentle hill, and then back down.
You will see some remnants of the old quarry 30 feet back from the road on your left (and 30 or so bee boxes when we were there, but I'm not sure if those are permanent), and you should park ~50 yards later on one of the pullout spots on the left or right.
From the car, head over an old logging road which is at the backside of one of the parking spaces, and has a large fallen log over it. The narrow trail will lead you around to the right following the canyon, and then eventually double back uphill for a short section of steeps.
Follow on once the route isn't steep anymore past some 30 foot boulders, and you will find yourself on the left side of established routes.
Weather station 17.2 miles from here
6 Total Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',1]
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Second Quarry:
Featured Route For The Second Quarry
Fruity Pebbles 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a CA
: Central Sierra
: ... : The Second Quarry
This route is located on the outward facing rock just right of the deep canyon area that has the overhung orange face on it. It is sistinctive because it has a diagonal rightward facing dyke for the first 10 feet of the route, and a bolt near the top of it.Climb up the dyke to the first bolt, and then over a bulge to the next. After standing up over this bulge, all holds dissappear. Tiny pinches and delacate footwork on a fairly steep slab are all you get until just after the last bolt, where ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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