Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Tiara Rado
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
100' Hands 
Dirty Martini 
Disappear/Reappear 
Eagle Tower-Mother Lover 
First Impressions 
Flapper 
Jolly Tower - Marital Bliss 
Large Surprises 
Oompah Tower - Ethan Putterman and the Chocolate Factory 
Second Coming, The 
Short, Cupped Hands 
Sickle 
Singles 
Slaughterfist 
Soren Roof 
Things Fall Apart 

The Second Coming 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Jason Huston
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,096
Submitted By: Orphaned on Feb 27, 2010
Good Page? 2 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Description 

Short, thin, and surprisingly hard. The Second Coming climbs the thin finger crack right at the top of the trail where the approach meets the cliff. Begin up good fingers with a couple large, sandy feet. Soon the feet disappear, the crack thins, and a couple big moves between finger locks are needed. After passing two very thin sections finish up with a few more big moves with some feet. (This route was originally an aid route called "Fingers of Death.")


Location 

Located 30' right of the Short, Cupped Hands crack, right where the approach trail meets the cliff.


Protection 

Fingers and smaller. I placed two grey Camalots, two yellow Metolius, and one blue (0.3) Camalot. It also helps to have a blue TCU and a blue Alien to pull through the cruxes. (I doubled up on the first two placements, grey and yellow, as it is hard climbing and a blown piece would mean ground fall.)

Lower from chains with fixed carabiners.



Comments on The Second Coming Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Feb 28, 2010

Great job, Jason! Is the route name a shout-out to Yeats?