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The Second Coming 

5.13-

   
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Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet
Consensus: 5.13- [details]
FA: Jason Huston
New Route: Yes
Submitted By: Orphaned on Feb 27, 2010

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Description 

Short, thin, and surprisingly hard. The Second Coming climbs the thin finger crack right at the top of the trail where the approach meets the cliff. Begin up good fingers with a couple large, sandy feet. Soon the feet disappear, the crack thins, and a couple big moves between finger locks are needed. After passing two very thin sections finish up with a few more big moves with some feet. (This route was originally an aid route called "Fingers of Death.")


Location 

Located 30' right of the Short, Cupped Hands crack, right where the approach trail meets the cliff.


Protection 

Fingers and smaller. I placed two grey Camalots, two yellow Metolius, and one blue (0.3) Camalot. It also helps to have a blue TCU and a blue Alien to pull through the cruxes. (I doubled up on the first two placements, grey and yellow, as it is hard climbing and a blown piece would mean ground fall.)

Lower from chains with fixed carabiners.



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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Feb 28, 2010

Great job, Jason! Is the route name a shout-out to Yeats?