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 ADVANCED
The Power Line Buttress
Select Route:
Fuzzy Bunny Crack, The T 
Little Bunny Fu Fu T 
Screamin Demon, The T 

The Screamin Demon 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: David Mealey and Aaron Boyles
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, summer, or fall
Page Views: 702
Submitted By: David Mealey on Jan 20, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: The screamin Demon

Description 

This is a classic desert trad route!
Pitch one Climbs a 5.9 off width to a large ledge 100'
Pitch two starts in a squeeze that opens up to a chimney then constricts to a 4 camalot crack, climbs past a ledge through some thin hands a fingers stopping at a bolted anchor. 5.10
Pitch three climbs through big hands in a groove past some large loose blocks and tops out with some fingers.5.10+

There is some choss, but there is a lot of quality rock and climbing on this route.

Location 

The route is on the right side of the north face(facing the car park). Just follow the power lines. There is a power pole only 20' from the start of this route

Protection 

Take a double set of cams from a #.5 to a #6, a set of stoppers, and some long runners. Rap the route or down climb the short chimney and traverse into the fuzzy bunny route in order to reach the true summit of the buttress. Then you rap the fuzzy bunny route on the river side of the buttress. Three raps to the ground either way you go.


Photos of The Screamin Demon Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up pitch one
BETA PHOTO: Looking up pitch one
upper pitches
BETA PHOTO: upper pitches

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