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 ADVANCED
Schoolroom Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bungle, The T 
Bushwhack Crack T 
Callitwhatyouplease T 
Chicken Rodeo T,TR 
Great Ripoff, The T,TR 
Hatchet Crack T 
Heaven's Gate T 
Hook Direct, The T,TR 
Hook Variation, The S 
Hook, The T 
Knobs to Gumbyland S 
Lizzie Borden T 
Mantel Variation S 
Mind Blow T 
Movie Variation T 
Playing Hooky Var. T 
Recess Variation T 
Rumba, The T 
Schoolroom T 
Schoolroom Chimney T 
Schoolroom Direct Variation T 
Schoolroom Roof T 
Schoolroom West T 
Scourge, The T,TR 
Stone the Crows S 
Talus Food S,TR 

The Scourge 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 669
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Apr 25, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Chicken Rodeo climbs the face to the big chickenhe...

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Description 

Climb into the Green Adjective Gully. On the right (west-facing) wall, just after a slippery 3rd class chimney problem, is this wall. The climb kind of scrambles up a ledge, and then it moves right and climbs a small chimney to a ledge. From here the real climbing begins. This climbs the grooves left of the nice big chickenhead, right at an overhang. Climb the 1st groove, pull a lieback, and a toe jam, then move to the left groove, and make another thin move or two, then wander right avoiding the final goove that turns horizontal at the end. Because of it's possible unprotectability, this climb makes an awsome warm-down climb after doing a larger climb that requires Schoolroom Rappel.

Protection 

2 bolts (Schoolroom Rappel) are at the top for an anchor. The climb itself looks tough to protect. A 3 1/2 cam for the top. Down low, and near the crux, maybe utilize some small Aliens. Be careful.


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By Peter Gram
Administrator
From: New York, NY
May 2, 2004

The Scourge is a fun TR option after doing some route to get up the Schoolroom. This is a popular rap station, so best to TR this climb during an off-time. Also, make sure to TR through your gear, the chains are already well worn. As a lead, this warrants a vs. I didn't see any pro options until the very top, where the climbing is easier.