BETA PHOTO: Chicken Rodeo climbs the face to the big chickenhe...
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Climb into the Green Adjective Gully. On the right (west-facing) wall, just after a slippery 3rd class chimney problem, is this wall. The climb kind of scrambles up a ledge, and then it moves right and climbs a small chimney to a ledge. From here the real climbing begins. This climbs the grooves left of the nice big chickenhead, right at an overhang. Climb the 1st groove, pull a lieback, and a toe jam, then move to the left groove, and make another thin move or two, then wander right avoiding the final goove that turns horizontal at the end. Because of it's possible unprotectability, this climb makes an awsome warm-down climb after doing a larger climb that requires Schoolroom Rappel.
2 bolts (Schoolroom Rappel) are at the top for an anchor. The climb itself looks tough to protect. A 3 1/2 cam for the top. Down low, and near the crux, maybe utilize some small Aliens. Be careful.
|By Peter Gram|
From: Park City, UT
May 2, 2004
The Scourge is a fun TR option after doing some route to get up the Schoolroom. This is a popular rap station, so best to TR this climb during an off-time. Also, make sure to TR through your gear, the chains are already well worn. As a lead, this warrants a vs. I didn't see any pro options until the very top, where the climbing is easier.