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Routes in Mud Spring Wing
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Beautiful Bastard T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fingers in the Honeypot T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Gadgers Edge T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Jagged Edge, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Long Riders, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Man of the People S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mito T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Schwa, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Schwalli T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Schwallow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Spirit Air S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 190 ft (58 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Joe Herbst, 1977 |
| Page Views: | 5,547 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | Jason D. Martin on Dec 12, 2006 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
The Schwa is one of the few members of Red Rock Canyon's exclusive splitter crack club. This club includes the likes of The Fox, Atman, Yin Yang, Red Zinger, and Chrysler Crack amongst a few others.
The Schwa itself feels a lot like The Fox. The second pitch of the route starts with hands and just gets bigger as you go.
The best way to climb this route is to break it into two pitches. There are a few ways to approach the main crack. The left side is somewhat difficult, whereas the right side is somewhat brushy. The best way up is up to you.
The second pitch is the main event. Climb up the central crack as it goes from tight jams to hand-stacks. There is a diving board ledge in the middle of the second pitch where you can shake-out and relax before committing to the forty-foot off-width you'll climb to obtain the top.
Two sixty-meter ropes will get you to the ground.
The Schwa itself feels a lot like The Fox. The second pitch of the route starts with hands and just gets bigger as you go.
The best way to climb this route is to break it into two pitches. There are a few ways to approach the main crack. The left side is somewhat difficult, whereas the right side is somewhat brushy. The best way up is up to you.
The second pitch is the main event. Climb up the central crack as it goes from tight jams to hand-stacks. There is a diving board ledge in the middle of the second pitch where you can shake-out and relax before committing to the forty-foot off-width you'll climb to obtain the top.
Two sixty-meter ropes will get you to the ground.
Photos
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