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The Schoolyard

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Coffin Corner T 
Deja Vu T 
Dunce's Corner T 
Honcho Imposter T 
Improbable Prose T 
Multiple Choice T 
Pop Quiz T 
Return of the Jedi T 
School of Rock T 
Schoolyard Bully T 
Short Subject T 
Sunday School T 

The Schoolyard  


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Administrators: Larry DeAngelo, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Feb 9, 2009
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The Schoolyard area from the First Creek Parking a...

Description 

At the mouth of First Creek Canyon, on the south (left) side, there is an area of complex cliff bands with several good routes. In Joanne Urioste's 1984 guidebook, she says merely, "Short climbs abound in the broken easternmost section at the mouth of the canyon." Much of the history is hazy, but Joe Herbst, Mark Moore, and Tom Kaufman (and probably others) did a number of lines back in the 70s.

Most of the cliffs face northeast and stay relatively cool. The rock ranges from excellent varnish to the sandy white variety.

Getting There 

Hike in on the First Creek Trail. About the time the main trail drops into the sandy canyon bottom, exit left and follow faint trails up an indefinite ridge to reach the cliffs. As you reach the top of the ridge, bear left for routes near the Coffin Corner, or right for routes near the Schoolyard Bully.

Allow at least an hour from the trailhead.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.5 miles from here

12 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',5],['5.8',1],['5.9',3],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Schoolyard:
Coffin Corner   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
Honcho Imposter   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 115'   
Browse More Classics in The Schoolyard

Featured Route For The Schoolyard
Josh quickly getting deeper than hands at the start.

Honcho Imposter 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  NV : Red Rock : ... : The Schoolyard
This is a very striking straight-in crack that brings full value for the grade. It begins with perfect steep hand jams then progressively becomes wider until you can finally (mercifully) squeeze your body in near the top. Expect a lot of sustained, clean offwidth climbing in between. Unfortunately, the location will likely keep this route from becoming the classic it could be if it were more accessible....[more]   Browse More Classics in NV

Photos of The Schoolyard Slideshow Add Photo
Overview of the Schoolyard with key landmark routes.
BETA PHOTO: Overview of the Schoolyard with key landmark route...
Number 8 Hexentric recovered from <a href='/v/return-of-the-jedi/106355722'>Return of the Jedi</a> once belonged to Joe Herbst.  Original sling is bleached by 20 or 30 years of exposure.
Number 8 Hexentric recovered from Return of the Jedi on...

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By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 11, 2009
An hour is a long way to walk to school. Probably uphill both ways, too.