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 ADVANCED
The Warlock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dragon's Back T 
Flying Warlocks T 
Ghostbumps T,S 
Howling, The T,S 
Imaginary Voyage T 
Planet Waves T 
Romantic Warrior T 
Sarcophagus, The T 
Sea of Tranquility T 
South Face T 
Spell, The T 
Titanic, The T 
Unknown T,S 

The Sarcophagus 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,858
Submitted By: Darshan Ahluwalia on Dec 1, 2009

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The chimney of The Sarcophagus

Description 

The Sarcophagus is one of the two awesome chimneys which splits The Warlock into its Top, Middle and Lower summits (The Spell is the other one).

Pitch 1: The regular first pitch, which we didn't do, supposedly goes up hard-to-protect and loose rock. It looks heads-up and probably goes at 5.7 or 5.8. As a safer alternative, we climbed the steep crack to the right of the regular start. This way felt about 5.10b burly crack climbing. Belay below the large chimney system, wherever comfortable.

Pitch 2: Climb up the chimney. Belay below a huge, obvious roof.

Pitch 3: This is a very short pitch. To overcome the roof, you have the option of going left through a tunnel and then back right or climbing up and around the roof on the right. We chose the easier way to the left and through the tunnel. Going right looks like it would be a steep and exciting finish, although slightly harder. Belay on bolts on top of the lower summit.


Location 

The route starts in the awesome chimney to the right of the even-more-awesome chimney of The Spell.

To get to the route, you'll need to climb up The Howling and then rap into The Warlock / Witch gully. Leave your shoes, packs, etc. at the base of The Howling.

Descent: To descend from the top of the Lower summit, you'll first need to climb up another pitch of easy 5th class to get to the Middle Summit. From here, do a short rappel from bolts to get to the notch between the Middle and Higher summits. Then, aid up a few bolts and climb easy 5th to get to the Higher (true) summit. From the Higher summit, locate the rappel bolts and do two raps to get back to near the start of The Howling.


Protection 

Lots of wide cams, nuts and long slings.

Wear your helmet as there may be loose rock on the route. (There was when we climbed it.)



Photos of The Sarcophagus Slideshow Add Photo
Looking out
Looking out
Starting up The Sarcophagus.
Starting up The Sarcophagus.
Big swing for the second if she falls (which she won't).
Big swing for the second if she falls (which she w...
Looking up at The Sarcophagus.  The blocky, loose face on the left is the regular start.  We took the steep crack on the right.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at The Sarcophagus. The blocky, loose ...
Looking down.
Looking down.
A closer look at the two start options for The Sarcophagus.  Left: easier, yet more runout and looser face.  Right: Steep crack which protects better.
BETA PHOTO: A closer look at the two start options for The Sar...
Looking up.
Looking up.
Starting up the steep crack to gain the large chimney of The Sarcophagus
Starting up the steep crack to gain the large chim...
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