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The Trad Crag
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Sanga's On Fire, The T 

The Sanga's On Fire 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Evans, Burch, Schubert
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 586
Submitted By: David Evans on May 3, 2003

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BETA PHOTO: The finger crack splits the right side of the whit...

Description 

The crag is split by a large ledge system. This finger crack starts off a 20' flake off the ledge. The clean finger crack arches up the white/gray varnished face to a ledge 40' below the top. This quality pitch is ~100' long. A short steep 5.8 hand crack takes one to the top. We did a long rappel off runners on two knobs to the right of the crack.

Protection 

Standard rack to 2.5".


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The Sanga's on Fire 5.10b
The Sanga's on Fire 5.10b

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By David Evans
May 8, 2003

The route is on the middle tier of the three visible in the sun with the upper crack visible.
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 12, 2003

Brilliant route name - it took me seeing it at least 4 times before it sunk in.
By Josh Beck
May 12, 2003

The Sanga, The Sanga, The Sanga is on fire. We don't care, let the motherf*cker burn.
By Murf
Apr 4, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Long intriguing pitch, seemed almost Tahquitz-like with some green lichen, odd sizing, and tricky pro in places. We did a short approach from the right ( 1-2 5th class moves ) which from the picture was *not* the BTWND. Could not find the previous rap, to cheap to leave anything, did a fairly long descent to climber's right. The best moderate route we did for the day, 3 of 5 *'s. It took some effort to spot this one, another obscure classic for AJ and DE.
By Graham Roff
Oct 24, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

A great route. Protection is a little tricky in the bottom finger crack, but adequate. Plan your gear carefully near the top of the flake as rope drag could get bad when you start up the hand crack.

We did a short rap off a knob down and to the right of the climb, to a nest of nuts and old slings, and from there down to the starting ledge. Ugly ugly descent - someone should put some rap anchors in up there.
By Richard Shore
Nov 5, 2012

Some small nuts protect the short crux after leaving the flake. The finger crack is more like a flaring shallow groove at times, making reliable cam placements difficult. A bit gritty still from lack of traffic, but a fun climb nonetheless. We also soloed the approach gully to the right, not bad, maybe 5.6-5.7.

New green 6mil cord on the nut-nest rap anchor as of 11/2012. 2 ropes get you back to your packs.