The Sanctuary is a little taste of Chek without leaving Squamish. This area of sport climbs is only a hop, skip and a jump from the chief and yet the granite is smooth, fine-grained and not inclined toward cracks in the way of the preponderance of Squamish granite.
The Basement area has some very impressive overhanging sport routes from 11a to 12d. The West Wing area is a little mellower with three 10s, but also some 11s and a 12a. Two other crags are in the vicinity: The Loft and The Sanitarium, but I haven't paid them a visit yet.
This area was developed by Peter Winter and Xander Botha, two guys who deserve a lot of credit for developing a lot of good crags in the Squamish area. It is covered in Marc Bourdon's Squamish Select guidebook and in Kevin McLane's 2005 edition of The Climber's Guide to Squamish book.
From Hwy. 99, turn onto Clarke Drive (just south of town, where the Hospital signs lead you), then right on Guildford and left on Westway.
Stay on Westway until it passes into the nice Raven's Plateau neighborhood and becomes Cherry Lane. Be careful to park discreetly so as to not disturb the local.
A trail is easily visible at the western limit of Cherry Lane, near where Westway enters the neighborhood. Follow this trail over a bridge and take a right on dirt/gravel access road. A bike trail breaks off left at a sign that says "Woodlot Access Road Close", follow this for about five minutes.
Take a yellow tape flagged trail left up into the forest. After gaining some height on pleasant but rough trail you'll emerge at the Basement Crag. The West Wing crag is up and left of the basement.
This is rumored to be the best climb at the sanctuary. The climb tackles the obvious seam on a crescent shaped wall, getting progressively steeper toward the top of the climb. The crux for me was a long move near the last bolt, although maybe the pump had something to do with this being the hard part. The route seems to pack quite a punch for it's relatively short length.This is rated 5.12b in the squamish select book, but definitely felt harder to me. Some of the holds seemed a bit crumbly,...[more]Browse More Classics in International