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The Sail 

5.11b/c

   
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Type: TR, 21 feet
Consensus: 5.11b/c [details]
FA: 
Submitted By: Adam Stackhouse on Feb 22, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: The striking Sail Boulder (5.11b/c) at Mt. Woodson...

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Description 

If the Uncertainty Principle is the patriarch of Mt. Woodson, then The Sail is the graceful matriarch. This gorgeous boulder sits way atop the hill and faces southeast. Although it is readily seen on the way up, the best visual comes after rounding the corner past The Cave.
Nonstop technical face climbing is the name of the game, with none of moves being arbitrary. Start just left of center up 5.10+ territory, halfway up move right a few feet, then finish up through 5.11 moves to the top. Crux comes pulling past a brown squarish hold, easily seen when scoping this route out. Stellar.


Protection 

Set up is either climbing the northeast edge/arete (no pro, 5.9+) or throw the rope over and batman up the backside. Two bolts at the top.



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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jun 29, 2006

To mitigate the potentiality of blowing off into a gully from the 5.9 arete, I found some security in using a cheatstone or two to get up to a good hold and go from there to set this up.

By ron amick
From: poway, ca
Oct 1, 2011
rating: 5.11c

Rick Allenby and I placed a bolt on top of the sail in 1986. we did the FA of two routes on the south face at that time.
The righthand line is "I Spy" and the Lefthand line is "The man from Uncle" both rated 5.11c.

The names, from old TV spy shows, have somehow been lost to time.