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The Sail

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bong Bong Firecracker T 
Brass Monkey, The T 
Castaway 
Flying Dutchman T 
Ream Crack T 
Wilson-Love T 

The Sail  


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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Stan Pitcher on Mar 17, 2005
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BETA PHOTO: The Sail. Bong Bong is the wide-looking (actually...

Description 

Between the Coffin and The Egg but high above, the Sail offers some interesting climbs which are quite challenging for their grades.It is mostly trad with a few bolts on one of the routes. The rock is pretty good but could benefit from more traffic. Since its so high off the road it is probably the best crag for winter sun in LCC.You can walk off to the west but we like to bring an extra rope and fix a single rope rappel off a block at the top. There are no bolts on top, but Castaway has an anchor with a new bolt just below the top (no rings though). All the routes are worth doing. The bolt(s) on the far right are not in the book and are probably some unfinished project.

Getting There 

Park in the Little Cottonwood lower canyon Park and Ride. Locate the climber's trail in the lot's northeast corner (directly north of the restroom). Follow this trail east until you are directly below The Egg Buttress. Follow the switchback up towards The Egg's west gully and follow the trail up towards The Sail.

Access is also gained by an arduous hike up the gully between Tick Fever and Hong Wall and there is a bit of scrambling (and heavy breathing) involved. This approach is no longer recommended and saves little to no time.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.1 miles from here

6 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',3],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Sail:
Ream Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Bong Bong Firecracker   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
The Brass Monkey   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Wilson-Love   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Flying Dutchman   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Classics in The Sail

Featured Route For The Sail
Pretty cool finger crack

Flying Dutchman 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b UT : Wasatch Range : ... : The Sail
The beautiful, thin, left angling, Mexican Crack-like fissure disecting the middle of the Sail. I've never led this...but I aspire to! The thin crack traverse is 10+, then some 5.8 R climbing above on some suspect flakes. If you're not a hardman, or at least, not a brave one, you can toprope this. Take some Loooong slings for blocks/horns at the top. Can barely rap off this with a 60M rope once you''ve slung the horns. Some anchor bolts on the face just below the top would sure be a nice ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

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By Mark Michaels
From: Draper, UT
Nov 23, 2005
The Sail gets far less traffic than it deserves!It took us only 30 minutes to get there recently, and trust me....my cardiovascular fitness level is rather sad!

With a 60 m rope, you can rappel from a sling around a large horn at the top of Flying Dutchman.There are rings on slings now (11-20-05), but be prepared to back them up.A 60m just makes it, so make sure your rope is centered and tie the ends together to be safe. Extending this anchor with slings is a good idea if you're planning to TR Flying Dutchman.
By ZachB
Nov 19, 2009
The newly built/renovated trail to the egg makes this approach even easier. Start up the trail for crescent crack buttress, then look for a trail heading off to the right just before the trail to the coffin. The trail switch-backs a few times, passes just under the hong wall, and ends up at the left side of the egg. From there it should be less than 15 minutes to the sail.
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Apr 9, 2010
Just cleaned up the rap anchor on this yesterday. Cut about 6 old slings off the top and replaced the back up to the mahogony tree. But just to be safe bring your own slings just incase.
By Michael Buchanan
Sep 2, 2010
This is one of the better crags in LCC. Is it the best? We would all talk about it as much as Crescent, the Gate or Pentapitch if the approach was nearly as chill. But its not. Its a scramble up a gully with loose rock, and class 3 scrambling. The rock is gritty at the top of the routes, but that is due to lack of traffic. This crag is a time capsule. Old school grades, no bolted anchors on the popular trad routes (that is how it should stay) and a sweet views of the top of popular LCC crags. When your there, soak in the sun, and be glad your not with the crowds on the Egg or the Coffin, which you will hear but not see. Bring your hexes, stoppers and tricams and feel old school for a day.
By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Jul 9, 2011
There are 3 great routes up at the sail that all LCC climbers should do. The horn still has slings on it for descending, which is convenient for all three of the routes as they all converge nearby, though it would be tons better if we could extend it out a bit more to reduce rope rubbage. From what I could see on my first venture up to the sail is after you leave the egg trail it is pretty much shwack and guess, so make sure you have a general idea of where to go before embarking. I did some 4th class moves up a tree to plant myself on some slabs that took me over there. Wear sandals or you will have 3 lbs of gravel in your shoes.

A better approach is to head up the gully inbetween the coffin and Keel, then do some 5th class climbing up and across some slabs to the base. Much more solid and fun than the horrific 45 degree beach above the egg.
By Mike C.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 28, 2012
At the base of the Sail where the routes begin, there are two bolts on the far west side of the ledge up there. Any beta on this? Is it a descent route? The top of a route on the Keel? Thanks in advance.