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 ADVANCED
Grotto
Select Route:
Don't Shoot, I'm Only the Belayer 
If You Can Climb It, You Can Condemn It 
Safety Blade, The 
Stems From Controversy 

The Safety Blade 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Duane Martenson & Brent Kertzman - Aug. 2003
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 300
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Aug 14, 2003
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Description 

This route follows the bolted sharp arete just right of "Don't Shoot, I'm Only The Belayer". It is difficult to avoid stemming to the formation on the right at the top. Let your conscience be your guide on when to step out right. Clipping the last bolt and the anchors will prove more challenging without stemming across to the formation on the right. The intent of the first ascentionist's is to stay on the left side of the arete on this route. The earlier you stem right the easier the route will be. Climb it the way you see fit.


Protection 

Eleven Bolts



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By Anonymous Coward
Aug 25, 2004

This route can't be any harder than 5.9+ if climbed the way I did it. Not worth the cost of the bolts. Why do people put up routes like this?

By Brad Boner
Aug 25, 2004
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

If anything this is overbolted at the bottom. I thought they could've been spaced differently to allow for 2-3 less bolts. The route itself is worth doing. I had a good time climbing it the first time, and I'd climb it again if I was in the area. Also a good route to take photographs of people climbing, as the surrounding formations can be easily scrambled for great vantage points.