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 ADVANCED
Beastie Alley
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Danger Mouse S 
Inner Sanctum S 
Jaws S 
Lichen to Liken T 
Pony Express T,S 
Rusty-P, The T,TR 
Thunder Toad S 
Unknown (crack with pin left of Unnamed 5.11) T 
Unnamed T,S 
Unnamed Fissure T 
Unnatural Attraction S 

The Rusty-P 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: pre-1984
Page Views: 368
Submitted By: Chris Wenker on Aug 16, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: The Rusty-P (5.7), Mosaic Rock, Tres Piedras, NM.

Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A 2-bolt anchor with chains appeared several years ago on this low buttress. The bulging face directly below the bolts appears to be unprotectable for quite a ways up. However, an easy crack approaches the bolts from pretty far to the left. Once the rope is hung from the chains, though, it's kind of hard to rap back down the crack because it's so far off the plumb line. Instead, the 5.8 face directly below can be toproped, although this is also kind of a PITA because the bolts are so far back behind the bulge that you end up with rope drag, and the oak trees at the base are in the way.
This left crack appears to be 'The Rusty-P', as described in the old "Tao's Rock II" guide (1984). The location and description seem to match. To wit: "just behind A-frame to East find crack, climb crack using face on right, bear left at top of crack, 3rd class to belay stance, hardest part about this climb is figuring out how-the -hell to get down." (The new bolt anchor obviates this problem). In the "Taos Rock III" guide (1991), Rusty P is described simply as a "Laid back crack with ancient pin." Both guides have this climb mapped on the SW end of Mosaic Rock, so it seems likely this is it. If anyone knows this to be wrong, I'll amend this page.

Location 

Located on the low southwestern buttress of Mosaic Rock, between Independence Gully to the right, and Beastie Alley to the left.

Protection 

To lead the crack on the left, a single rack of cams and nuts suffice.


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By Steven Reneau
Aug 28, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Seemed easier than other 5.7s at TP. Several TR variations of varying grades are possible below the anchors, though oak branches do get in the way a bit. But we didn't find the rope drag to be too bad.