All Locations > New Mexico > Santa Fe Area > Diablo Canyon > Early Wall

Runway (Lower Tier) Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Runway (Lower Tier)

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Day with Dr. Diablo S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Aerostar S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Airfoil S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Aviatrix S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Boarding Pass S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Clip Art S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Drunk Rednecks with Golf Clubs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Ergo S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Eyes Wide on Arrival S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Flight Simulator S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Holding Pattern S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	JetStream S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Learning to Fly S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Mile-High Club, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Mocos Locos S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Pitch S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Right Stuff, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Space Shuttle S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Start the Machine S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Stone Temple Pilot S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Top Gun S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Turbulence S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Yaw S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

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Elevation:	5,500 ft
GPS:	35.80524, -106.14249 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	A Miller on Sep 27, 2009 · Updates
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Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands Details

Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.

Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.

Description

Located on the central part of the Early wall, this crag is at the lowest point along the cliff band and provides the longest single pitch routes on great quality lower tier rock, and access to some routes on the upper tier. This crag sees sun for about an hour or two in the early morning making it a great warm weather destination. Routes tend to be challenging, tenuous, sustained, and contain multiple cruxes. A great training ground for the experienced sport climber.

Getting There

A new trail (fall 2012) has been established that takes one to The Runway quite directly via a nicely graded path. The new trail starts in the arroyo straight across from the trail to the Winter Wall. The trail heads west and traverses straight to the base of the Runway.

Alternatively, the historical approach is to scramble up loose crappy scree to the Grotto. At the top of the steep and loose scree and talus, head east (left) along the base of the north-aspect Early wall and when you hit the lowest point of the cliff, you are at the beginning of it.

23 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Runway (Lower Tier)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 107 ● Drunk Rednecks with Golf Clubs Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 58 ● The Mile-High Club Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 57 ● Ergo Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 37 ● Learning to Fly Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 29 ● Start the Machine Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 84 ● Top Gun Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c 32 ● Pitch Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 23 ● Mocos Locos Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 28 ● Aviatrix Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 18 ● Airfoil Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a 38 ● Aerostar Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a 20 ● Holding Pattern Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 21 ● Boarding Pass Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 27 ● Turbulence Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 21 ● The Right Stuff Sport