Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.
Currently, climbers are welcome visitors in part because of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.
In 1998 through 2000 this area was quarried and is presently under restoration and re-vegetation. The climbers' trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the trail so that this area can recover.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
This climb follows the arete atop hatchet crack. Anyone that has climbed hatchet has noticed the killer chicken heads on this arete. This arete just begs to be climbed, those chicken heads are pretty nice. Start with a few low angle slabular moves then follow chicken heads past a few more bolts. There are some long reaches to good chicken heads. The climb generally mellows the higher one climbs but near the end it turns very slabby. This is the crux of the climb and is well protected and is only a couple of moves.
Approach as for hatchet crack. Starts on the arete just north of hatchet and ends at the belay tree for the last pitch of schoolroom.
Take the same rack you would take for hatchet crack. You will be supplementing the bolt protection with gear. Without this suplemental gear this climb would be quite run out. With gear it is not bad. Crux is after the last bolt If I am not Mistaken...
By Boissal From: Small Lake, UT Apr 16, 2010 rating: 5.106b20VII-19E2 5b
Rack = burden on this one. A long runner to tie off a knob, a couple of cams (BD .5 and 1) or a few nuts (I placed a #4 and #10) are all you need to supplement the (well spaced) bolts. Unless you spend more time than necessary climbing Hatchet crack... Slab shoes are a must at the thin crux which is quite the wake-up call after scampering up a perfect chickenhead ladder. Watch your rope, a 70m puts you back in the groove at the base of Hatchet, a 60m would require some unpleasant downclimbing.
Big moves on jugs, delicate slab moves, well spaced bolts, 120': moderately radical.
edit: agreed on the squeeze, although unlike on Jesus you can do that one without touching the other line. Worthy IMO.