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 ADVANCED
Schoolroom Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bungle, The T 
Bushwhack Crack T 
Callitwhatyouplease T 
Chicken Rodeo T,TR 
Great Ripoff, The T,TR 
Hatchet Crack T 
Heaven's Gate T 
Hook Direct, The T,TR 
Hook Variation, The S 
Hook, The T 
Knobs to Gumbyland S 
Lizzie Borden T 
Mantel Variation S 
Mind Blow T 
Movie Variation T 
Playing Hooky Var. T 
Recess Variation T 
Rumba, The T 
Schoolroom T 
Schoolroom Chimney T 
Schoolroom Direct Variation T 
Schoolroom Roof T 
Schoolroom West T 
Scourge, The T,TR 
Stone the Crows S 
Talus Food S,TR 

The Rumba 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 974
Submitted By: Shaun Greene on Sep 29, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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BETA PHOTO: only the upper portion of this climb can be seen i...

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Description 

This climb follows the arete atop hatchet crack. Anyone that has climbed hatchet has noticed the killer chicken heads on this arete. This arete just begs to be climbed, those chicken heads are pretty nice. Start with a few low angle slabular moves then follow chicken heads past a few more bolts. There are some long reaches to good chicken heads. The climb generally mellows the higher one climbs but near the end it turns very slabby. This is the crux of the climb and is well protected and is only a couple of moves.

Location 

Approach as for hatchet crack. Starts on the arete just north of hatchet and ends at the belay tree for the last pitch of schoolroom.

Protection 

Take the same rack you would take for hatchet crack. You will be supplementing the bolt protection with gear. Without this suplemental gear this climb would be quite run out. With gear it is not bad. Crux is after the last bolt If I am not Mistaken...


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By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Apr 16, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Rack = burden on this one. A long runner to tie off a knob, a couple of cams (BD .5 and 1) or a few nuts (I placed a #4 and #10) are all you need to supplement the (well spaced) bolts. Unless you spend more time than necessary climbing Hatchet crack...
Slab shoes are a must at the thin crux which is quite the wake-up call after scampering up a perfect chickenhead ladder.
Watch your rope, a 70m puts you back in the groove at the base of Hatchet, a 60m would require some unpleasant downclimbing.

Big moves on jugs, delicate slab moves, well spaced bolts, 120': moderately radical.

edit: agreed on the squeeze, although unlike on Jesus you can do that one without touching the other line. Worthy IMO.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
May 21, 2010

Looks like someone added a second pitch to this maybe? Anyone know anything about it?
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
May 21, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

There's a few lines up there that were posted here for a while then disappeared due to controversy over bolting 5.5 lines that are commonly used as descents from upper schoolroom.