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This south facing rock makes a nice outing during the winter and has some nice variety of both grade and type (trad and sport, 5.8-5.12). Note that some of the routes need two ropes. Some nice ones here include "One Green Spot" (5.9+ sport), "Parallel Ventures" (5.10b bolts/small gear), and "Crooked Sky" (5.10d face/gear).
Park in the lot at milepoint 4.7 and take the steep trail which starts at the north end and follows over the east ridge. Once atop the ridge and just past a fence the trail will continue down to the rock.
29 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Ruins:
One Green Spot 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Sport, 1 pitch
No Excuses 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 40'
Techno Savage 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport
Parallel Ventures 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Four Crows 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Sport, 2 pitches
Medicine Bag 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch
Crooked Sky 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Black Feather 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Sport, 1 pitch
Duh Bulge 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch
The White Eyes Arrive 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Featured Route For The Ruins
Primal Sledge 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : The Ruins
A fun, overhanging jug haul. If you're not hanging on a bucket, you missed something. Very well bolted. The only concern I had on this route was that some of the rock is reinforced with glue. And I don't mean small holds, I mean big chunks of rock. I guess it has held for 10 years now. Seemed pretty solid to me, but make sure your belayer wears a helmet. How solid is rock glue?...[more] Browse More Classics in AZ
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