The Rubberfat Syndrome
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This route is a neglected gem. The line is a straight up shallow crack/trough/groove system with cryptic movement in the first half followed by straightforward but not necessarily easy offwidth and squeeze in the top half. The wide stuff up top thankfully features a handcrack in the back for a good bit of it. The crux is probably the entire first 30' of puzzling moves ending with a lieback on tenuous feet to gain a thank god horn/fin on the edge of the crack. Be extremely careful with the see-through flake/thread at the 10' level, outward force would liberate it from the wall. While next door there will be a 3 deep que for Illusion Dweller, you won't be waiting in line for this one.
About 80' right of the start of Illusion Dweller and immediately right of the bolted start of Chameleon. Tops out just right of the topout for Illusion Dweller. Walk off climber's right down the south shoulder of the formation.
Toprope. Take a separate rope to rig the TR, the anchor will be way back from the edge and takes 3" to 5".
|Comments on The Rubberfat Syndrome
|By Russ Walling|
Jan 20, 2008
FA: John Bachar, late 70's?
|By The Shocker|
Oct 2, 2013
Did this route in 2005 to avoid the queue on Illusion D. No gear until after the crux. Dave Mayville watched and speculated it was the first lead of the route. Onsight mandatory.