Login with Facebook
The Royal Tower

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blade, The T 
Boomerang Buttress T 
Chase, The T 
Di's Surprise T 
East Ridge T 
Gargoyle Buttress T 
Got Lucky T 
Jester, The T 
Royal Flush T 
Southeast Face T 
Spam and Legs  T 

The Royal Tower  

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,130'
Location: 62.7005, -151.2227 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,570
Administrators: Jared LaVacque, Dommelhiemer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Richard Shore on May 20, 2013
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: The Royal Tower. The shadow of the Munchkin can ju...

Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!


A stunning 2,500' hunk of granite located centrally on the south flank of the Pika Glacier. A number of routes exist on the various aspects of the Royal Tower, but most are poorly (or un-)documented. The most prominent feature is the beautiful Gargoyle Buttress, a 2,000' IV 5.10a rock climb topped with 500' of moderate snow climbing to the summit.

Getting There 

From the airstrip/basecamp, ski or snowshoe west for about 10-15 minutes to the base of this huge mountain. Depending on route/conditions, you will likely need an axe and/or crampons to climb steep snow slopes and cross a bergschrund to the base.

Climbing Season

Weather station 52.2 miles from here

11 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For The Royal Tower
The Jester 5.10 in red, The Blade (5.10+ variation...

The Jester 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Mod. Snow  AK : Denali National Park : ... : The Royal Tower
Towards the left margin of the East face of the Royal Tower is a narrow buttress that starts in a toe of clean, white rock. The obvious feature to look for is the "V-shaped" cracks in the clean rock. The Jester takes the left branch of the "V" (crux) before climbing more moderate and wandering pitches up the ridge and finally a ton of 3rd class to the summit. Many parties will probably opt to do just the technical portion of the climb (7 pitches) and rappel from fixed anchors/slings. Climb moder...[more]   Browse More Classics in AK

Photos of The Royal Tower Slideshow Add Photo
The Royal Tower as seen from the airstrip/basecamp
The Royal Tower as seen from the airstrip/basecamp
The Gargoyle Buttress, IV 5.10a, jutting out of th...
The Gargoyle Buttress, IV 5.10a, jutting out of th...

Comments on The Royal Tower Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!