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The Royal Tower Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in The Royal Tower

L › R R › L A › Z

	Blade, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Mod. Snow
	Boomerang Buttress T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Chase, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2
	Di's Surprise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
	East Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Gargoyle Buttress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Mod. Snow
	Got Lucky T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Jester, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Mod. Snow
	Royal Flush T M4
	Southeast Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Spam and Legs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c WI4 M5 A2

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Elevation:	8,130 ft
GPS:	62.7005, -151.2227 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	15,255 total · 115/month
Shared By:	Richard Shore on May 20, 2013
Admins:	L. Von Dommelheimer Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park! Details

Description

A stunning 2,500' hunk of granite located centrally on the south flank of the Pika Glacier. A number of routes exist on the various aspects of the Royal Tower, but most are poorly (or un-)documented. The most prominent feature is the beautiful Gargoyle Buttress, a 2,000' IV 5.10a rock climb topped with 500' of moderate snow climbing to the summit.

Getting There

From the airstrip/basecamp, ski or snowshoe west for about 10-15 minutes to the base of this huge mountain. Depending on route/conditions, you will likely need an axe and/or crampons to climb steep snow slopes and cross a bergschrund to the base.