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The Royal Tower

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The Royal Tower  


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Elevation: 8,130'
Location: 62.7005, -151.2227 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,374
Administrators: Jared LaVacque, Dommelhiemer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Richard Shore on May 20, 2013
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The Royal Tower as seen from the airstrip/basecamp

Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!

Description 

A stunning 2,500' hunk of granite located centrally on the south flank of the Pika Glacier. A number of routes exist on the various aspects of the Royal Tower, but most are poorly (or un-)documented. The most prominent feature is the beautiful Gargoyle Buttress, a 2,000' IV 5.10a rock climb topped with 500' of moderate snow climbing to the summit.

Getting There 

From the airstrip/basecamp, ski or snowshoe west for about 10-15 minutes to the base of this huge mountain. Depending on route/conditions, you will likely need an axe and/or crampons to climb steep snow slopes and cross a bergschrund to the base.

Climbing Season



Weather station 52.2 miles from here

3 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',3],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For The Royal Tower
The Royal Tower. The Gargoyle Buttress is left of center and leads to the smaller summit. The tiny snow blob of the first pitch can be seen.

Gargoyle Buttress 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Mod. Snow  AK : Denali National Park : ... : The Royal Tower
Probably the most popular route on the Royal Tower. Thanks to a striking line, mostly moderate climbing, and, most importantly, inclusion in Puryear's book, makes it easy to understand why. As noted, I would imagine the majority of parties stop at the top of the rock, but continuing to the summit makes for a really rewarding route. This, of course, requires carrying boots and tools all the way up there. At any rate, a very worthwhile route with very fun climbing in spots and amazing views. Easy ...[more]   Browse More Classics in AK

Photos of The Royal Tower Slideshow Add Photo
The Gargoyle Buttress, IV 5.10a, jutting out of the clouds on the Royal Tower
The Gargoyle Buttress, IV 5.10a, jutting out of th...

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