The Royal Tower as seen from the airstrip/basecamp
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A stunning 2,500' hunk of granite located centrally on the south flank of the Pika Glacier. A number of routes exist on the various aspects of the Royal Tower, but most are poorly (or un-)documented. The most prominent feature is the beautiful Gargoyle Buttress, a 2,000' IV 5.10a rock climb topped with 500' of moderate snow climbing to the summit.
From the airstrip/basecamp, ski or snowshoe west for about 10-15 minutes to the base of this huge mountain. Depending on route/conditions, you will likely need an axe and/or crampons to climb steep snow slopes and cross a bergschrund to the base.
Weather station 52.2 miles from here
3 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For The Royal Tower
The Jester 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mod. Snow AK
: Denali National Park
: ... : The Royal Tower
Towards the left margin of the East face of the Royal Tower is a narrow buttress that starts in a toe of clean, white rock. The obvious feature to look for is the "V-shaped" cracks in the clean rock. The Jester takes the left branch of the "V" (crux) before climbing more moderate and wandering pitches up the ridge and finally a ton of 3rd class to the summit. Many parties will probably opt to do just the technical portion of the climb (7 pitches) and rappel from fixed anchors/slings. Climb moder...[more] Browse More Classics in AK
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The Gargoyle Buttress, IV 5.10a, jutting out of th...