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> 4. Wonderland Wall
The Route Vultures
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 1.6 from 9 votes
Type: | Trad, 65 ft (20 m) |
FA: | Loran Smith and Joshua Corbett April 3. 2013 |
Page Views: | 1,308 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | Edge on Apr 3, 2013 |
Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
A worthwhile addition to the far right side of the Wonderland Wall, this route was named for the turkey vulture circling overhead as it was cleaned on rappel. Longstack's carcass continues to get picked clean...
P1: Amble up the easy but interesting face with good pro where you need it. Head towards the middle of the thin roof up high, and pull through at the obvious small dike. A short, quizzical crux leads to a step left and the Rona's Roof anchor.
P2: From the tree anchor, climb up through a series of short clean walls separated by dirt covered ledges trending up and slightly left. 5.3
P1: Amble up the easy but interesting face with good pro where you need it. Head towards the middle of the thin roof up high, and pull through at the obvious small dike. A short, quizzical crux leads to a step left and the Rona's Roof anchor.
P2: From the tree anchor, climb up through a series of short clean walls separated by dirt covered ledges trending up and slightly left. 5.3
Location
Starts between Rona's Roof and Evening Blues, directly behind a small pair of beech saplings. Rap off of the Rona's Roof anchor with one rope, or from the top of the cliff walk to climber's left 15' and rap from the Coyote Rain anchors.
Protection
Good gear which includes small wired stoppers, a 2 1/2-3" cam, and a few small cams. One fixed pin protects the midsection; tie it off with a runner to avoid a biner from being side loaded over the edge. Probably not a good intro to the grade as the gear protecting the crux will be below your feet as you step over the small roof.
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