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The Route that Kor Forgot
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 1 from 1
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Routes in The Seldom Seen Wall
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Jack Mormon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Outta Sight T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Peekaboo Dihedral T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Reclusive Buttress, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Route that Kor Forgot, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Southeast Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 7 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | perhaps Andy Grauch and Chris Sheridan, 6/20/2010 |
| Page Views: | 753 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Sheridan on Jun 22, 2010 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Closures
Details
Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Description
This route could easily have been climbed by Layton Kor years ago and never mentioned. Maybe he forgot to write it up, or maybe he never even set foot on the face. Nevertheless, the route is very similar in character to the Kor Route on The Saber, hence the name. The route has seen some previous activity, we found the tattered remains of a rappel station on top of pitch two.
Pitch 1: climb straight up to the base of a prominent, left-facing dihedral (5.8, 150 feet).
Pitch 2: climb up the left-facing dihedral. The crux is just above the belay and a touch run-out but reasonably secure. Continue up the dihedral to a large belay ledge (5.10 PG-13, 180 feet).
Pitch 3: climb cracks on the steep, right side of the dihedral to avoid lower quality climbing in the corner proper. Gain and then follow a chimney system behind a giant flake. From the top of the flake, continue up to a large ledge system (5.10-, 190 feet).
Scramble up to the top of the ledge system. From here, it is possible to take a side trip left for a close up view of the Central Buttress. For the route, scramble up, right and around the South East ridge and onto the east face.
Pitch 4: climb cracks up, then trending left on exposed terrain following the southeast ridge onto the south face (5.8R, 180 feet).
Traverse right on easy 3rd class terrain and grassy ledges for about 120 feet and set a belay at the base of the upper east face.
Pitch 5: climb discontinuous cracks trending up and right towards a large bulge. Traverse right below the bulge to a belay (5.8, 150 feet).
Pitch 6: climb up and left on steep terrain past the easier right side of the bulge. Higher up the climbing gets easier. Stretch the rope and belay wherever looks good (5.8, 180 feet).
Pitch 7: climb up easy terrain to gain and then ascend an easy chimney which ends at the top of the east buttress and a stone's throw from the Continental Divide (5.6, 150 feet).
Pitch 1: climb straight up to the base of a prominent, left-facing dihedral (5.8, 150 feet).
Pitch 2: climb up the left-facing dihedral. The crux is just above the belay and a touch run-out but reasonably secure. Continue up the dihedral to a large belay ledge (5.10 PG-13, 180 feet).
Pitch 3: climb cracks on the steep, right side of the dihedral to avoid lower quality climbing in the corner proper. Gain and then follow a chimney system behind a giant flake. From the top of the flake, continue up to a large ledge system (5.10-, 190 feet).
Scramble up to the top of the ledge system. From here, it is possible to take a side trip left for a close up view of the Central Buttress. For the route, scramble up, right and around the South East ridge and onto the east face.
Pitch 4: climb cracks up, then trending left on exposed terrain following the southeast ridge onto the south face (5.8R, 180 feet).
Traverse right on easy 3rd class terrain and grassy ledges for about 120 feet and set a belay at the base of the upper east face.
Pitch 5: climb discontinuous cracks trending up and right towards a large bulge. Traverse right below the bulge to a belay (5.8, 150 feet).
Pitch 6: climb up and left on steep terrain past the easier right side of the bulge. Higher up the climbing gets easier. Stretch the rope and belay wherever looks good (5.8, 180 feet).
Pitch 7: climb up easy terrain to gain and then ascend an easy chimney which ends at the top of the east buttress and a stone's throw from the Continental Divide (5.6, 150 feet).
Descent:
Walk west to the gully between the Seldom Seen Wall and the east face of Taylor Peak. Descend this gully (3rd class) right back to the base of the climb. Some snow may be encountered, and depending on conditions can be avoided by a combination of scrambling down the sides of the gully and rappelling.
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