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 ADVANCED
Notch, cave side (SW)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Behind the Eight Ball T 
China Syndrome T 
Even Steven T 
Geek Corners T 
Roadside Floral Curtain S 
Route of All Evil or F.M.B., The T 
Slapshot S 
Sucker Punch S 
Tang T 
Toxic Shock T 
View from the Bridge, The T 
Wall to Wall Fanny T 
Working Man T 
Yellow Cake T,S 

The Route of All Evil or F.M.B. 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Colin Bartholomew (first reported ascent)
New Route: Yes
Season: All seasons
Page Views: 769
Submitted By: Colin Bartholomew on Jun 30, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: First Ascent.

Description 

Let me preface this. Supposedly this route was climbed a long time ago but I cleaned it extensively and it has not been reported officially anywhere. Take it for what it's worth.
Description: Follow the rightward leading hand crack with good protection. Grab face holds when you can and pull up into the crack. Once there, follow the face up to a stance. Here, if you are tall enough you can get a yellow alien in the high crack. If not, you might have to run it out. If so, you're looking at a long fall. It is possible to sling a root at chest height but the FA party didn't so it's up to you. From here, pull the flake with marginal feet up to the next flake, with less marginal feet. Then pull onto the top.

Location 

The Inner Wall at Index Town Walls. Follow the description there. It is two climbs left of Toxic Shock, next to the 5.10d corner.

Protection 

Two number one's and two number two's and a yellow alien.


Comments on The Route of All Evil or F.M.B. Add Comment
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By Robert Fisher
Jul 1, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The route is very short and needs a lot more cleaning to be worth anyone's while. If you are in the area, climb Index 5.8 and want to check out a dirt circus, have a go.

As an aside to the cleaner, Typically routes that have anecdotal previous ascent information are respected, even those without names. Reporting this as "Unnamed 5.9 crack" and FA Unkown would be more appropriate than renaming and giving yourself credit.
By Colin Bartholomew
From: WASHINGTON
Jul 5, 2010

Was it wet when you climbed it Robert? Cause that can affect the grade significantly.
By mindy
Aug 8, 2010

You can also just boulder up this, no gear needed.