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Upper West Bolton
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The Rose 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
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Submitted By: alan blade on Apr 10, 2010
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The Rose Crack, Classic

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Description 

A fantastic hand crack. It meanders a little as it goes up the slightly tipped back rock face. The slight green tinge of the face from the moss lends a nice away from it all feel...sustained and a true Vermont Classic


Protection 

Normal rack plus a number 4 for the top.



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By James Simone
Mar 10, 2013

slightly overhanging. laced both my #3s into the bottom 30 feet. I had met a VT climber in the Dacks (on flying & drinking, drinking and driving, introduce yourself again if you see this!) who had also recommended the #4 for the top. I am glad for this page, and that advice; there are numerous placements for a #4, and even a #5, as you go, and knowing that I needed to save it proved crucial.

A phenomenal hand crack, certainly the best of its kind that I've climbed.

By Zak Munro
From: VT, Leadville CO
Jun 4, 2013

I'am trying to get a better idea of what kind of gear this takes before i lead it. Any suggestions?

By Derek Doucet
Jun 5, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

*SPOILER ALERT* Rather specific gear beta below...

The meat of the climb takes #3 camalot sized gear. How many depends on your comfort level with cupped hands. A small-medium sized wire is useful for the start, and a larger nut or two is nice at 2/3 height. The top takes a #4 camalot sized piece, and a #1 camalot can be placed deep in the crack at the very exit if desired. You'll probably want a #2 camalot sized piece on the rack as well.

There is no fixed anchor on top, but a solid anchor can be built by using a small tree and vertical finger crack well back from the edge and extending back to a good belay position with the climbing rope.

By Matt Luck
Sep 6, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b

On August 6 we found a new 2 bolt anchor at the top of the Rose located just above the lip of the climb to the left of the crack. Unfortunately the anchor is rather low to be useful for anything other than hanging a toprope; in addition, it is quite precarious to access unprotected from the top. Also, the cable around the tree had been removed and a new anchor placed on the left wall at the top of the Thorn which is also dangerous to access without protection from above.

By Derek Doucet
Sep 7, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Hey Matt,

I couldn't agree more with your assessment of both of those anchors. Well intentioned, I'm sure, but unfortunately poorly executed and thoroughly unnecessary. I imagine the motivation to remove the anchor on the tree above the Thorn was to protect the tree itself which is commendable. However the threat to that tree is erosion/soil compaction and to TR (which from observation I'd say constitutes the vast majority of the traffic on the Thorn) one still has to walk right past the tree to access the new anchor. In addition, it is dangerous to approach from above without using the tree to tether oneself anyway. Finally, for leaders, it's now possible to clip the anchor before doing the last moves to stand up, which is arguably one of the cruxes of the route. For these reasons, all in all I think the Thorn anchor is not in any way an improvement.

The Rose anchor too is poorly executed. If the idea was for a TR anchor, it's both unnecessary (there's gear and trees to build a solid anchor if one brings some static or webbing) and poorly positioned. However if one is absolutely determined to have a TR bolt anchor there, put it several feet back from the edge to facilitate safe set-up. There's no point in placing it that close to the edge, since it still needs extension to eliminate nasty drag, and it's useless as a rap anchor regardless.

My other pet peeve this season at UWB has been folks stealing the fixed carabiners from anchors, leaving just a single quick link on bolts. Those carabiners are left there because pulling ropes through single quicklinks TWISTS ROPES. The carabiners change the orientation of the rope's travel through the anchor to eliminate this problem.

Cheers,

Derek

By Alex Hilshey
From: Hollidaysburg, PA
Feb 25, 2014

Wow, I'm kind of sad that someone put bolt anchors up on these two. People won't have to do the glamorous "dead fish" paw for your life top out of the thorn... :(

There's always a crowbar, epoxy, and rock dust...

By Brad Bond
Feb 25, 2014

I am also sad that someone placed bolts on these routes. These routes have been climbed routinely for +-30 years without need of an anchor, and topping out on either route is not trivial and IMO adds to the experience of climbing the route. Looks like the thrill of the finish has been taken away from both routes.
I'd vote for pulling both of these anchors.