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Routes in Bowling Alley Main Wall
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7-10 Split S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bees Knees, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Changing Lanes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Gutterballs S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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House of Sky S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Kingpin S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Lies and Candy S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Limestone Lanes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lisp, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Log Jammin' S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Open Project S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Player Haters Ball, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Rinse and Repeat S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Rookie, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Snare the Spare S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Stealing Thunder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Strikes and Gutters S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Superunknown S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Underwhere S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Who Do You Think You Are, I Am! S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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| Type: | Sport, 85 ft (26 m) |
| FA: | Todd McGregor |
| Page Views: | 3,348 total · 29/month |
| Shared By: | Luke Bertelsen on Oct 15, 2014 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Access Issue: Private land crossing and parking information - PLEASE READ BELOW !
Details
You walk across private land to enter this area. The landowner has been tolerant so long as we don't disturb his land or his cattle. To keep a good relationship with him it is extremely important that climbers don't mess with grazing cattle, and that ALL GATES STAY AS THEY ARE FOUND. Also, the large gate on the north side of the parking area MUST NOT BE BLOCKED IN ANY WAY; the rancher regularly uses this gate as he drives a truck pulling a large trailer, so the road leading to said gate MUST STAY CLEAR by least 40 feet on all sides, including the road perpendicular to it (running east-west). If the parking area is full, drive past the bridge and park on the next pullout (not far), and NEVER BY THE GATE.
Please be respectful and keep this access open to climbers. Use posted photos for this area to familiarize yourself with where parking is and is not allowed. Access to all gates must remain available to a truck and trailer. Parking in any way that restricts access to the gates north of the highway will jeopardize access for climbing.
Please be respectful and keep this access open to climbers. Use posted photos for this area to familiarize yourself with where parking is and is not allowed. Access to all gates must remain available to a truck and trailer. Parking in any way that restricts access to the gates north of the highway will jeopardize access for climbing.
Description
There is plenty of variety on this route and it will keep you honest with cruxes galore all the way to chains.
Power is the name of the game on this route. After the slab intro prepare for battle at bolt four as the next several clips and deciphering the sequences through them is no gimme. You'll get to grab plenty of small tufas and underclings before you find yourself climbing two widely spaced left facing seams. Make it through the seams and the climb gives way to long pulls on decent holds. This one also has a real cherry on top with a final amazing technical section leading to the last clip and a nice little run to the anchor just to keep you on your toes.
This is a great climb and should get more traffic as The Farmhouse sees continued development. Get on it!
Power is the name of the game on this route. After the slab intro prepare for battle at bolt four as the next several clips and deciphering the sequences through them is no gimme. You'll get to grab plenty of small tufas and underclings before you find yourself climbing two widely spaced left facing seams. Make it through the seams and the climb gives way to long pulls on decent holds. This one also has a real cherry on top with a final amazing technical section leading to the last clip and a nice little run to the anchor just to keep you on your toes.
This is a great climb and should get more traffic as The Farmhouse sees continued development. Get on it!
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