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 ADVANCED
The Rook

Select Route:
East Face T,TR 
North Arete (unknown proper name) T,TR 

The Rook  


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Elevation: 6,000'
Page Views: 741
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Housiaux, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Tony B on Jul 30, 2006
Forecast:
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Clear
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Clear
57° | 36°
Clear
64° | 42°
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67° | 41°
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67° | 46°
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The North arete is the obvious fin on the right si...

Description 

This peak has at least 2 possible routes on it, but I don't know any history of them. The Rook lies just uphill of the billboard/kiosk of the entry to the Cathedral Spires trail, looming perhaps 70 feet overhead. The routes on it got afternoon shade.
Belay from a cord over the large rounded summit and descend via a simul-rap.

Getting There 

Walk 10 or 20 meters in on the Cathedral Spires Trail and look uphill to your left. There it is.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.5 miles from here

2 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For The Rook

North Arete (unknown proper name) 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c SD : Custer State Park : ... : The Rook
While the bottom half of this climb is non-descript and uninteresting, the top is very cool. In the transition between, I was eating raspberries growing from a plant on the wall to the right... reaching for them added a crux.Climb up the very north end of the East Face and pass a bulge with what appears to be an undercling (but is actually rotten rock) and up better stone near the arete. Continue to the arete and to the inside, between the spire and the wall behind it on good square holds. Reach...[more]   Browse More Classics in SD

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