Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Apache Peak
Select Route:
Bishop's Scepter 
Bishop, The 
Black Knight 
Kasparov Traverse 
King's Pawn 
King, The 
Northwest Face 
Queen's Way 
Queen, The 
Rook, The 
White Knight 

The Rook 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Not known
Page Views: 3,196
Submitted By: Mark Oveson on Aug 26, 2005
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Mark Oveson rappelling from the Rook

Description 

The Rook is south of the Bishop and slightly west of the Shoshoni-Apache ridge. It can be seen from the Isabelle Glacier cirque and from many points along the Kasparov Traverse and is justifyably the focus of attention. The rook is tall, round, and steep from all sides. The capstone creates overhangs on several aspects. The whole tower seems to lean out to the west over the expanse of air above Lone Eagle Cirque. The whole project looks improbable from every angle.

From a position south of the Rook, traverse north along a narrow ledge, staying on the east side of the main ridge. This ledge leads to a comfortable belay just below a notch between the Rook and a much smaller finger of rock that might as well be called the Rook's Pawn.

From the belay, traverse south to a thick, detached flake and traverse right to get on top of the flake, which forms a ledge. Follow a prominent hand crack as it curves up and left, pull throught the roof on the left near a piton, traverse above the roof to the right and reach the summit and a two-piton anchor. These pitons were rusty but in reasonably good shape in August 2005.

Bill Wright climbed all the moves free with some resting on pieces, and he estimates the route would go free at 5.10+ or 5.11-.


Protection 

Stoppers and medium-size cams



Photos of The Rook Slideshow Add Photo
The route on the Rook
BETA PHOTO: The route on the Rook
Mark Oveson on top of the Rook
Mark Oveson on top of the Rook
BETA PHOTO
The Rook, from the low point on the ridge between Shoshoni and Apache.
The Rook, from the low point on the ridge between ...
Comments on The Rook Add Comment
Show which comments
By Eric Klammer
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 2, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

CONDITION REPORT 

Found what appears to be the anchor used by Bill Wright in a heap on the summit, with one fixed pin included in that heap. (Weird....)

Anyways, the other pin is still in place and can be wiggled slightly by hand but seems solid enough and is now backed up by a pretty good stopper. Setup is equalized and ready to go with a quicklink as of this post date.

Also, be very cautious on the rappel! Your rope will run over many loose rocks that may easily come detached from the cliff. I thought this was by far the most dangerous part of the whole operation.

By Eric Klammer
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 2, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Following my partner up the Rook, we both agreed that the route was nowhere near 5.10+/5.11-. I was able to free it all first go, and believe that a 5.9 rating is appropriate. The hand crack hosts great jams, and only one tricky move separates the crack from the large jugs hiding in and over the roof. Don't let the grade scare you away, this is an awesome route with great gear, get on it!