For exact approach look in Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah by T. Goss. Start is behind a bush, just right of a dihedral. 5.9 climbing up varnished edges to crux over the first roof.
Excellent belay station for second pitch, however significant rope drag over the first roof for the second ascender. Second pitch is a little more crimpy with a tougher second roof crux. Two rappels down with single rope or walk off if you want a long hike down.
quickdraws...13 should do.
From: centerville, utah
Nov 19, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
this is a stellar route. very easy climbing with 2 roof cruxes. the first roof wigged me out because it isnt part of the wall itself. its suspended. i kept imagining it falling apart on us.
|By Dan L|
From: Moab, UT
Nov 30, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Awesome route. Easy climbing first pitch. 1st roof I would rate a 10c, but second roof looks like a 10d or possible 11a.
Dec 23, 2008
2nd roof harder??? Say what? Crux is 1st roof. Der. I'm right. You're wrong. he he he
Aug 14, 2009
I love this route - a little history to help w/ the route description though...when the route was originally bolted the first pitch was the easiest, including the roof, however around 2005 some climbers jumped on it after recent moisture had come through the area and key jugs were broken off of that roof. This significantly changed the route and made the first roof harder than the second. These changes make the climber go through the fist roof using specific holds with a sequence that isn't the most natural. Back in the day though the jugs were nice and you could easily match - taking away any need to lead into that section w a specific sequence (if I remember correctly you lead into it with your Left hand reaching high from those super nice under clings) with the route trending to the right away from you and then back left once you get up over the roof.
|By Stan Pitcher|
From: SLC, UT
Nov 10, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Thanks for the history - good to know I've not completely lost my mind? Hadn't been there in years and just climbed it last weekend. Volunteered for the 'crux' pitch because I thought I remembered the first roof being much easier. Instead it was much harder - 10d or maybe a bit harder?
Any contact info for the handle vandals? :) Hope they learned something that day!
Also there is a very nice single pitch line (10ish) to the left of the first pitch. Can't miss the shiny hangers - wish they'd paint those!
|By Bruce Nielson|
Aug 19, 2011
what is the crack to the left of this route named.
After climbing it it feel like 5.9. standard rack to 4in doubles for medium-size cams would be helpful
|By Dr. Dan|
Apr 23, 2012
Led this route 2005, 2007, 2009 and today, 4/23/2012. There are definitely a few holds missing on roof1 making it more sequnce dependent, but I still think 10c is still accurate. I also led the single pitch immediately to left of P1 and thought that pitch was 10d.
Jul 2, 2012
@ Stan Pitcher & Dr. Dan - Unfortunately, I do know the vandals and am glad to report - they don't climb any more....More unfortunate, I found the missing holds while free soloing the route!! Made for an exciting day to say the least.