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The North End
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Be Sharp Or B Flat T 
Big Plum (the Girdle Traverse of Cathedral Ledge), The T 
Bird's Nest T 
Childs Play T 
Exiles in Babylon T,S 
Generation X T,TR 
Jack The Ripper T 
Kiddy Crack T 
Knights in White Satin S 
Liger, The T 
Mantleshelf Problem T 
Merrill's Variation T 
Possessed, The T 
Post Mortem T,S 
Raising The Roof T 
Recluse T 
Recluse Traverse T 
Roof aka The Corner, The T 
Slot, The T 
They Died Laughing T 
Thresher T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

The Roof aka The Corner 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: joe cote and (summer 1972), FFA: Henry Barber and B. Gierke (fall 1972)
Page Views: 1,178
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jul 25, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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BETA PHOTO: The Roof 5.9


Though often wet I highly recommend it if you find it dry. I was quite pleasantly surprised at the quality of the climbing since I've never heard much good said about it.

Here are the pros:
Great movement
Well protected
Conveniently located
Never crowded

Often wet
Not as clean as They Died Laughing
A loose block or two

So you can make your own call. Your mission, should you choose to except it, begins in the corner capped by a roof, to the left of the popular section of the North End.
Climb moderate moves up the corner until you can gain cracks and jugs on the right wall. Climb these wonderful features to the right end of the roof over your head. Continue up the corner above for another 10-15 feet to a nice ledge.

You can belay/rap from here via a sling on tree anchor, or continue (straight up or up and right) to a two-bolt anchor above. Several nice pitches can be accessed from there.


Corner capped by a big roof on the left side of the North End.


Regular Rack.
Bolted rap station (if some moron hasn't chopped it)

Photos of The Roof aka The Corner Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Oliver takes a lap on The Roof
BETA PHOTO: Oliver takes a lap on The Roof

Comments on The Roof aka The Corner Add Comment
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By chinos
Aug 15, 2011

I believe this is called The Roof. someone posted it under the diedre area. just a heads up to avoid confusion.
If it is the same route you can continue up the corner after the roof to a massive ledge with an anchor. Hurley added a second pitch Raising the Roof that climbs past a few bolts in a corner and finishes with gear in horizontals to a bolt anchor also 5.9
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 15, 2011

Ed Webster's book calls it "the Roof" and Jerry Handren's calls it "the Corner" i call it both...
neither seem right to me since it goes around the roof and only spends a short time in the corner haha...

but it sounds like our mighty administrator might want to choose one or combine the descriptions and decide which area it belongs in... we could call it The Roof aka (The Corner) so owners of both guidebooks know whats going on...
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Aug 15, 2011

I always thought of this as more of a North End route. In fact, I think the Possessed could also be considered part of the North End. Lee, do you want to rewrite this to include "The Roof" info? I'll delete the other route submission...that is, unless anyone else objects and/or disagrees.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Aug 16, 2011

For sure a North End route and i think the Diedre area starts with Diedre.
By AWinters
From: NH
Aug 16, 2011

This is North End. I would also refer to 'The Possessed' and even 'Jack the Ripper' as North End routes.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 17, 2011

im on it Jay!
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Jun 23, 2015

This was a totally fun, mellow climb. To me it felt like a Gunks 5.6 rather than a 5.8. Worth doing; fun moves with good gear. What more can you ask for?
By NEAlpineStart
From: Conway, New Hampshire
Oct 12, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

It should be noted this route was cleaned around 2004 by Eric Nelson. Before that the guidebook labeled it a "Bag of S%$^" so it didn't get much traffic. It is now an unheralded gem of a climb. Great moves, good gear, not polished like the other North End classics. This is a must do IMO. It is 5.8, but a bit tricky during the on-sight. Without giving much away there will be a lot of moments where you'll be amazed at how good that hidden hold/finger lock is. I would not combine the first two pitches unless you are really strong at the grade. The shorter second pitch has a couple awkward spots, and a few "creaking" jugs, but is pretty fun climbing.

The tree that used to have a sling rap station on it at the top of pitch 1 is compromised. Earlier this summer someone saw the root system lift up as a climber rapped off it and reportedly stood on the roots to help secure it. Don't rap from that tree. Look for other options.
By Zak Munro
From: VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
Oct 23, 2015

There's a bolted rap station as of 10/15/15

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