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 ADVANCED
The North End
Routes Sorted
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Be Sharp Or B Flat 
Bird's Nest 
Childs Play 
Exiles in Babylon 
Generation X 
Jack The Ripper 
Kiddy Crack 
Knights in White Satin 
Mantleshelf Problem 
Merrill's Variation 
Possessed, The 
Post Mortem 
Raising The Roof 
Recluse 
Recluse Traverse 
Roof aka The Corner, The 
Slot, The 
They Died Laughing 
Thresher 
Unsorted Routes:

The Roof aka The Corner 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: joe cote and (summer 1972), FFA: Henry Barber and B. Gierke (fall 1972)
Page Views: 640
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jul 25, 2011
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Description 

Though often wet I highly recommend it if you find it dry. I was quite pleasantly surprised at the quality of the climbing since I've never heard much good said about it.

Here are the pros:
Great movement
Well protected
Conveniently located
Never crowded

Cons:
Often wet
Not as clean as They Died Laughing
A loose block or two

So you can make your own call. Your mission, should you choose to except it, begins in the corner capped by a roof, to the left of the popular section of the North End.
Climb moderate moves up the corner until you can gain cracks and jugs on the right wall. Climb these wonderful features to the right end of the roof over your head. Continue up the corner above for another 10-15 feet to a nice ledge.

You can belay/rap from here via a sling on tree anchor, or continue (straight up or up and right) to a two-bolt anchor above. Several nice pitches can be accessed from there.


Location 

Corner capped by a big roof on the left side of the North End.


Protection 

Regular Rack.
Fixed rap station on tree.



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By chinos
Aug 15, 2011

I believe this is called The Roof. someone posted it under the diedre area. just a heads up to avoid confusion.
If it is the same route you can continue up the corner after the roof to a massive ledge with an anchor. Hurley added a second pitch Raising the Roof that climbs past a few bolts in a corner and finishes with gear in horizontals to a bolt anchor also 5.9

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 15, 2011

Ed Webster's book calls it "the Roof" and Jerry Handren's calls it "the Corner" i call it both...
neither seem right to me since it goes around the roof and only spends a short time in the corner haha...

but it sounds like our mighty administrator might want to choose one or combine the descriptions and decide which area it belongs in... we could call it The Roof aka (The Corner) so owners of both guidebooks know whats going on...

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Aug 15, 2011

I always thought of this as more of a North End route. In fact, I think the Possessed could also be considered part of the North End. Lee, do you want to rewrite this to include "The Roof" info? I'll delete the other route submission...that is, unless anyone else objects and/or disagrees.

By john strand
From: southern colo
Aug 16, 2011

For sure a North End route and i think the Diedre area starts with Diedre.

By Adam Winters
Administrator
From: the Shire
Aug 16, 2011

This is North End. I would also refer to 'The Possessed' and even 'Jack the Ripper' as North End routes. When you can have a conversation with a neighboring climber on 'They Died Laughing' with an inside voice, seems like they would have to be in the same area..

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 17, 2011

im on it Jay!